IT18DKXRQ00 Inglis Refrigerator - Instructions

Followed video and had one problen, the metal pipe would not release as shown,so I used a hacksaw between the plastic and metal pipe, removing the metal pipe from inside as the video shows. Good instructions.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Watched the installation video and was able to make repair easily

Removed door and replaced bushing bracket was ok.

When you plug in the fridge it will begin to make noise, but never get cool. When you open the door it will stop and will not turn back on.

This part is listed as one that can fix the problem, but the installation video does not match my fridge.

I've replaced the capacitor (PS11757023), the compressor start relay (PS11740412), and condenser fan (PS1957416) and none of them have fixed the problem.

I really don't want to throw this fridge out. Please help! justin@jplt.com

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Popped into place, less than 10 seconds Done.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Took three screws out of the old ice-maker, disconnected the electric pigtail in the freezer, shut the water off, removed two mounting screws on the water valve (back & bottom of fridge), used a wrench to remove the water lines.
Put new valve on, reattached water lines, connected electric pigtail to ice-maker, put 3 screws back in to mount ice-maker, turned the water on and had ice in about 6 hours.
VERY EASY - All the parts for various installation were included and the instructions are easy to follow.

replaced ice maker with recommended add on kit. easy to replace exact replacement. used this company for washing machine part. parts correct both times.

This was really easy to do thanks to comments posted on the Partselect web site and the instructions included in the package. I removed three screws, unplugged the wire harness using a small screw driver to "unlock" the harness, removed the old ice maker assembly from the freezer, and reversed the process with the new assembly. Saved the valve and other parts for future use. The new unit started making ice within an hour or two. Very cool!

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

Basicly i bought this kit because I didnt know what part I needed. Our refer already had a icemaker. I pluged in the new ice maker and screwed it into the freezer in the exsisting holes. Presto a full box of ice in 48 hours.

Simply removed the old and replaced with the new part.

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing