CTE18EPERAD Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

took a little more effort than the video show to remove old module and replace new. Works fine now.

Removed the broken fan blade (just pulled off) and replaced with part purchased PartSelect. Very easy repair, no tools required.

Un Plugged the frig. Unlocked the socket by pressing down on the latch. Pulled the socket out ensuring I had enough slack. Unplugged the old socket installed the new. Plugged the frig back in. Tested the switch . Very easy-to-use.

It was way to ez to install only a couple of minutes that's it

Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.

replaced handle and cap

pluged the wire harness into the new socket from the back and snaped the socket in place.

Frig parts had been scavenged in an apartment complex. Restoring socket was only a matter of plugging in two spade contacts and clipping in socket.

Just as your video described, although due to the age of the fridge, it took a bit longer to remove the defective switch. Your video made this so simple, I can't imagine why we lived with a dark fridge for so long! I was ready to buy a whole new fridge, as repairmen are often nonexistent for small repairs. I am the biggest fan of your company & it's repair video. THANK YOU SO MUCH

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

Had to e-mail GE for electrical schematic. Checked voltages to compressor. Jumpered compressor to see if it would even come on. Found bad run capacitor. Fixed.

repalaced the old one with the new one. easy

My experience with PartSelect was excellent. My main concern was ordering the right gasket. First, I found the model number on the inside of the refrigerator. I ran model number on PartSelect and the compatible gasket came up. I removed old gasket carefully pulling it out. I cleaned around the groove that holds the gasket in and where the gasket lays. I boiled water and put it in a cake pan. I warmed up the gasket and smoothed and straighten it out. I started in each corner of the gasket and then worked from each corner pushing it carefully into the holding groove. Took me about 25-30 minutes. It seems to be working great!

Checked the defroster coil which is located behind the rear panel in the freezer compartment, it was still working. Followed the schematics down to the defrost timer, which is located in the lower front of the refrigerator and tried that. Plugged in the new part and the problem is solved.