CTX18CGR Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

took the old piece out, installed the new, replaced the retainer..Done

Started new gasket soaking in very hot water before removing the old gasket. By the time we were ready to install the new gasket it had mostly regained it's proper shape. New gasket install went smoothly, other than a few of the original clips broke when removing the old gasket.

Wish you gave actual outside measurements of the gaskets so that you don't have to guess the dimensions of ones that are shown overlapping.

I pryed the old end caps off the bar with pliers being careful not to bend the metal retaining tab on the bar. The new bar end caps snapped right on the bar and the new end caps / bar assembly snapped right into the slot on the door. Very Easy Repair.

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

Had to e-mail GE for electrical schematic. Checked voltages to compressor. Jumpered compressor to see if it would even come on. Found bad run capacitor. Fixed.

Gently pry out switch in door jam with screwdriver and pull both connectors off and put connectors on new switch then push switch back into the hole. Looked it up on the internet and video showed how to and also had link to new part, ordered and less than a week later the fridge is bright again. I have an older freezer also and it seems that they all use the same switches. Very Very easy

removed the inside fridge electrical panel and swapped switches

easy pry out, disconnect wiring, connect on new switch and press in switch.

I started at the compressor and replaced the overload and the Ptcr first and that did not make the compressor start running again, so I replaced the capasitor and it still did not start, so I bit the bulett and replaced the Main Control Board and that is what I should have checked first, when I removed the old one I found a little burnt spot on the back that I could not see from the front. The new one did not look exactly like the old one, it had two more wire terminals than the old one, but just leave them blank and everything will work just fine!

Fairly easy I pull the fridge foward and remove the backing board and notice the fan wasn't working, so I remove the fan and bench tested and it was burned then I clean the condenser with compress air if you don't have air then a vacuum cleaner works then once the part arrived I install it the now if working very good

per your instructions

Emptied freezes, turned off power, took floor of freezer out [4 screws ], took two screws out of fan mounts and replaces fan. Reassembled by reverse process. Simple

I removed the back of the refrigerator access panel disconnecte the 3 bolst holding the motor to the fan shroud assembly and removed the burned wires from the recepticle end at the wring harness. The fan motor comes with wire nuts but I chose to use the same style of connector as came with the OEM motor. I purchased the new connectors from NAPA and they are an exact fit. The new motor fit perfectly and has run flawlessly since the installation. It is in an awkward location and that takes time to get yourself into position but once there the assembly is very simple and it is rewarding to be able to use the appliance again. The ordering from the website and phone order are very easy to do and you have what you need in a timely and expeditious manner.

I had wasted 5-6 weeks waiting for SEARS to send me the CORRECT Part. They kept sending the wrong part, telling me that the right one would be sent "THE NEXT WEEK" & Then finding out that the CORRECT ONE was on BACK ORDER with NO KNOWN DATE of shipment in Sight! So I looked up the part on the Internet. FOUND PartSelect & THEY found the CORRECT PART(That was on Saturday) with in 3 days... I had the PART! PLUS the Part arrived in GREAT SHAPE-NOT SO WITH SEARS which came with the packaging ALL TORE UP & THE GASKET was half out of the box and BADLY RUMPLED UP! PARTSELECT had very helpful instructions on their site & Over the Phone helped me do it in little or no time at all! I did remove the 2 screws at the bottom or the door-VERY EASY!!! atwhich time I saw that I also needed 2 nylon washers(I had several on hand!) Removing the whole door is not necessary, but in my case I FOUND the very worn washers & Was able to replace them too!... Now the door moves alot easier! PLUS: with the door off, I could do(replace the metal strips)on the Bottom & Inside gasket EASIER!... I WILL NEVER get partsfrom Sears again & ALL of my future Parts Purchases will be from PARTSELECT! I am VERY IMPRESSED & HIGHLY RECOMMEND PARTSELECT!

I started removing the switch by prying on the right side with a screwdriver, when it emerged enough I used pliers to finish removing it. I then unpluged rhe wires from the bad switch and pluged them on the new switch and "poped" it into the hole.