CTF14AGB Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

Pop out switch, pull wires, attach wires to new switch and pop back in. Easy smeasy!

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

put the gratefruit knife behind the old switch pooped it out pluged the new one in piece of cake 5min.even vacumed the dust off the coil

Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.

This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!

removed back cover--disconnect water supply-- removed screw holding vave and unplugged the
electric from the valve-- disconncect waterline to
the icemaker. reverse the to put on new part.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

1st - checked water supply - old valve in water line was closed with sediment.
2nd - replaced water line valve and reconnected copper tubing about 1 hour
3rd. removed single outlet valve and installed the new part - about 15 minutes

Everything went well and was very easy.
Unfortunately, the ice maker still does not work.
Still trying to understand what is wrong.

My Son removed two screws, electric plug and two (2) compresion nuts. He had to bend the bracket to fit, then replace it, in reverse order except the filler tube on the new valve was of a "stabb-in" type. Job was a piece of cake and this small project, solved all our problems with the Ice maker.

I replaced both the punp and water line. the website depicting the repair parts was the best i ever worked with. The parts were high quality delivered on time and easy to install. Total job cost $30 as opposed the cost of of a service man or a new refrig.

Removed the broken fan blade (just pulled off) and replaced with part purchased PartSelect. Very easy repair, no tools required.

It was way to ez to install only a couple of minutes that's it

took a little more effort than the video show to remove old module and replace new. Works fine now.

Unplug electrical power to refrigerator. Disconnected electrical power to water valve, Disconnected water inlet and out let lines from valve. Remove screw holding valve on refrigerator, removed and replaced water valve with screw. Connected inlet and outlet water lines, turned on water and checked for leaks. Connected electrical power to water valve, plug in electrical power to the refrogerator. Ice maker tray fill, made ice.

Started with a visual inspection.
Turned off water.
Removed old valve.
Bent bracket to facilitate installation.
Installed.
Hooked up.
Tested.
Works as advertised.....