CTF15AFC Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.

I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.

Cut old thermostat out and installed with heat shrinking wrap and solder the wires and still having issues it might be something else.

Had to defrost a bit and then was able to remove rear freezer panel by simply removing the 2 screws holding it in place.
Old motor easily removed from its mounting bracket. and replaced with the new. Had to use the two wires sent with the motor. I clipped off the male connectors and joined them with wire splicers to the black and red wires clipped from the old motor. Then reinstalled.
The replacement motor works great. I was afraid the old fan blade might not fit but it slid on perfectly.

Empty freezer;
Remove shelves and ice trays;
Unscrew and remove the rear vertical panel;
Unscrew and remove fan housing;
Unscrew and remove fan from fan housing;
Fan blade slides off the motor shaft without tools.
Reverse order to reassemble with new fan motor.

I did have to use the wire extensions that were included as the replacement motor had the electric connections in a different location from the original motor.

Overall, this was an easy replacement.

we took off the old one and replaced it.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

I loosened the compression nut on the valve with my fingers and pulled the water line free from the valve. On the other end, I just pulled it from the hose clamp. Installation in reverse. Force the water line into the fitting on top, Slide the old nut over the line on the bottom. Screw the nut onto the valve. Reach inside the freezer and turn on the ice maker. Done. Before replacing the cardboard grill, you should vacuum the coils on the bottom, front and back. If practical, push it outside and blow it out with an air compressor or a leaf blower.

I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.

Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.

This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!

Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.

with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP