HSS22BDMCWH Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

Took the three screws out of the cover, took the six plugs off of the board and removed board.

I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.

Had to go to a plumbing supplier and buy two in-line quick connects for 5/16" tubing (Be nice if Partselect added these). Ace, Lowes, and Home Debot didn't carry them.Took out two drawers and glass tops and this exposed the water reservoir. Cut the existing 5/16" tubing down far enough to utilize the new tubing. Had to remove some foam covering. Not a problem. Removed old reservoir with philips screw driver (two screws) and installed new reservoir. Cut new tubing to desired length. Used the in-line quick connects to connect the tubing and put glass covers and drawers back into refrigerator.

as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.

10 minutes total.

A second person is necessary to help prop up the refrigerator. One person will need to insert a 6 inch support under the front of the refrigerator base while another person rocks the refrigerator back to provide access for the support to be inserted.

The front refrigerator panel was removed to reveal the refrigerator base and provide access to the front wheel assembly adjustment screw (screw mobility). The front of the refrigerator was propped up on a solid support about 6 inches above the floor to provide access to the front wheel assembly and allow removal through the base of the refrigerator. The front wheel assembly was dislodged from the base by first removing the pivot pin by hand and then prying the wheel assembly loose with a screwdriver. Normally the pivot pin would need to be released by prying it loose with a screwdriver and then pulling to free by hand. Once the front wheel assembly was dislodged the adjustment screw was removed with a socket set and the front wheel assembly fell out of the refrigerator base. The new front wheel assembly was then inserted into the refrigerator base, the new pivot pin was inserted and aligned with the support holes and pressed into place to secure with locking mechanism. The new adjustment screw was then inserted into the refrigerator base hole, aligned with the front wheel assembly and hand tightened to set the first threads. The adjustment screw was then tightened with a socket set to seat the adjustment screw. The refrigerator was then lowered and the adjustment screw was adjusted to level the refrigerator. The refrigerator was then pushed back into its normal position and a final adjustment performed to assure the refrigerator was level. The front refrigerator panel was then pressed back into place.

Unplugged frig. Emptied freezer shelves of food, removed ice container, removed all shelves, removed light bulb cover and light bulb, removed rear panel over coils (2 phillips on bottom and 2 1/4" hex on top/staggered. Used hair dryer hung on a wire to defrost the "ice block" over the coils. Used heavy towels to catch the water in the bottom so the condensate drain didn't just overflow. Removed the 2 screws holding the old element. Unplugged the quick disconnects. The new 2 element heater purchased at partselect is not "encapsulated" like a florescent tube as was the original. Much greater efficiency with exposed element coils. Re-routed blue wire on left of coil bank to the right-used the same split insulator that pink wire is in to keep it safe, did not need to use the jumper extention that comes with the kit. Plugged in both the blue and pink wire quick disconnects, installed the new defrost element with the 2 screws. Cut the old thermostat right up against it's sensor pot. Stripped existing wires, used my own wire nuts to mate the new thermostat, wrapped tight with electrical tape, then tucked them up underneath. Snapped the new sensor on the evaporator line at original location. Replaced panel, plugged frig back in, turned control in frig side to 1, and it works like new now. No more freezer burn. Ice cubes better. Still, this design is poor and no more ge major appliances for me.

As it turned out much of the electronics is driven by 13.5 volts off the Main Control Board. The Ice Dispenser caused the problem because it over currented the depleted board power. You could hear a clicking noise from the board which was the main relay short cycling and not staying energized. While waiting for the replacement board I unpluged the condenser fan which is a DC motor and uses the Board power. In place of that fan I use a small table top fan to keep the condenser cool. As it turned out I only needed it for 3 days because Parts Select did a super quick job of delivering the new board. Thanks for the super service!!!!!! Removal of the board only required unpluging the electrical connections squezing the retaining board pins with pliers and pulling the board out, pushing on the new board and connecting the electrical plugs. If the board locks like mine did, just unplug the main board power plug, let the memory clear and replug the power plug. The unit should then start and run with no problems.

Ordered the new part (water valve). Took off the bad one followed directions on you video. The video explained the process making it easy to do.

I first replaced in-line water filter to the fridge. No ice. Then I replaced the water filter inside the fridge. Still no ice. I inspected the water inlet feeding the ice cube trays and it was froze up with ice. I removed the two screws holding the ice maker in place to remove the ice from the inlet tray. I then used a hair dryer to melt the ice accumulated in the in-coming water tube. Turned off the water and unplugged the fridge. When replacing the old water valve, I first blew through the hose feeding the ice maker to be sure that it was clear of ice. After re-attaching the water hoses and the electrical connections, I turned on the water, plugged in the fridge and turned the ice maker switch back on. Next morning I had ice cubes. Only mystery is I am not hearing the usual water noise when water is feeding the cube tray like I did before, - not to worry though if it works. My drawer is now full of cubes.

I am a 45 year old woman who is pretty handy but with no prior knowledge about appliance repair. I do have the attitude that if someone else can do it, so can I, which is helpful. I was able to watch a video on this website that showed me exactly how to replace one of the three parts that I replaced. It totally made it easy so that I knew what to do with the wiring. So far, my side by side is working great. I'm the champion! This repair cost me about $75. Who knows how much a repair man would have charged just to look at it.

Unfortunately, the replacement part didn't come with instructions. The repair, nevertheless, was fairly straightforward. After removing the plastic parts that guide the ice through the door (by removing a few screws that attach the parts to the inside of the door), I was able to slip my hand into the ice maker dispenser and remove the old part. The part clips on. It is a tight fit through the funnel (from the outside of the freezer), however, and requires that the gasket first be "flipped" open wherein it unfolds 180 degrees. Doing this will make it easier to clip the new gasket onto the assembly.

If you sqat down to the dispenser level, under the panel where the buttons are, and look up at the bottom of the panel, you will see 3 small holes. These holes are about 1/8" in diameter, and maybe 2" apart, right under the button panel. If you look carefully, you will see white plastic in the outer two holes. One at a time, insert a small (#0 ?) phillips head screwdriver into the holes which will release a plastic catch that holds the panel in place. Pull the released panel out gently, and on the back side is the circuit board. 3 screws hold it in place to the panel. 3 wiring harness plugs need to be removed. Since they are different sizes, they won't be easily confused. After installing the panel board with the 3 screws and plugs, the panel snaps back into place easily.

The repaire guy came in tooke it out and told me it is goin to coast $20 for the part and $50 for the labor..... So I looked, It was soooo eeezzz ALL you have to do is get the switch out( with help of my butter knife :) it plugs in to a little outlet on the wire (on the botom side) so take out the old one and plug in the new one wich I got for $8 + $6 shipping = $15 THANK YOU PART SELECT for saving me $55 Im a 36 y/o stayathome mom and Ihave never don this before, Im very proud of my self. well... it was very easy!

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

I watched the on live video. Piece of cake!