HTG25DBMARWW Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

Ironically I did this today, as this email request came up asking how it went. I'm not a repairman, I'm a software engineer, and I can't thank this site enough for the step by step videos. With the video to help, this was a breeze, I was nervous as I had to empty all my freezer out onto the living room floor. Once that was done the repair took about 30 minutes. Thank you partselect!!!!! My second time doing business here, and I'll be coming back (well, if something breaks, so let's hope I don't have to).

Followed the repair video, was spot on!!

luckly i have a bit of experience in refrigeration im an hvac technician by trade. this repair was a bit tricky in that i did not know at first if it was a Temperature Sensor issue or the main control board. I had tested the defrost termination thermostat and the defrost heater and as i suspected they were ok. Next i wanted to test the thermistors (temp sensors) it is hard to find technical data on these fridges. I needed to test the thermistors resistance @ a certian temperature to ensure they were working properly but where do u get such data? I also wanted to know some information about the logic programmed into the board (i.e when do you initiate defrost etc. . .). I had no such luck so i figured since i tested the defrost heater and thermostat and they were ok and all of the evap fans and such were working i'd order a circuit board and new thermistors. Got the CORRECT PARTS from this site in 2 business days and my fridge is working great! changing the parts was really easy, figuring out which parts to change was the only difficult thing about this job.

I looked at your video . very nice. job went fast. thank you mike.

Based on instruction I replaced the defrost thermostat and the temperature sensor. There was no improvement. The defrost thermostat was supplied with orange and red wires. the original wires were orange and pink. I connected the 2 orange wires and the pink to the red. So I don't really know if that is the problem or not. currently I don't know what to do next anyone got an ideas? It has dual evaporation.

first unplug unit then pulled the inside back freezer cover off piled towels around and defrosted the the unit thoroughly. located the defroster unit tested for continuity was good so i replaced the temp sensors they were just nip off the old one and splice in the new one. also replace the defroster thermostat was the same nip and splice. *the parts shop did not find the model #i have but knowing those parts are interchangeable with all G-E models i ordered the parts

1. Removed and tested defrost heater, tests good. 2. Reinstalled defrost heater. 3. Removed and tested defrost over-temperature sensor, tests good. 4. Reinstalled over-temperature sensor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 5. Removed the control printed circuit board and checked for blown fuse's, fuse's are all good. 6. Removed the defrost relay from the printed circuit board using soldering iron, bench tested the relay, it is good. 7. Soldered defrost relay back onto the circuit board, and reinstalled control board. 8. Removed and bench tested evaporator thermistor, the resistance is out of specification, ordered new thermister. 9. Installed new thermistor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 10. Re-assembled refrigerator. 11. Installed temperature monitoring and recording instrumentation for 72 hour test. The defrost cycle is running correctly with a defrost termination temperature of around 90 deg-f. The defrost cycle ran twice while running the 72 hour test. 11. Removed test instrumentation and Put the unit back into service, The thermistor was the culprit. I bought the right part on the first shot, nice.

I ordered 3 temperature Sensors Part#PS304103 and viewed the video. Got there, opened the frig. and it looked totally different and no place in any part of this frig. that took these sensors as viewed on the video. Totally baffled why these parts were listed for this frig. there was no place in this frig that would access for these parts. Serial # was HR443071.Maybe this model is out of date for these parts. Trying to find someone who can repair it. Any ideas???Purchased this GE in 2008. Model #is GSS25WSTFSS Thanks, for your help. JIM

Had to remove all the covers and fans to expose the condenser, which was difficult as the parts were frozen to it. The styrofoam covering the condenser made it almost impossible to defrost it. Therefore, I ripped the styrofoam off to expose the condenser. Was not really difficult to fix the styrofoam cover using metal tape. Replaced temperature sensor in aluminum block, and used butyl sealant to secure. Had to also re-install parts of ice-ball kit that were not well covered. Lots of parts to keep track of, but anyone could do it.

had to rewire the harness in place in freezer. should have removed door for more room to work . easy job if you have 4 foot arms and a 1 foot chest.

Removed back panel,removed ice maker.And you can see the two wires colors are a snap to identify cut the two wires spliced the new one in done deal!

Part select was great. I entered the model number and was able to locate a list of problems associated with my refrigerator. I was able to view a repair video, courtesy of part select. I followed the instructions and the repair was simple. The hard part was trying to remember how everything went back together. I unplugged the unit and removed the freezer racks. I then unscrewed the back panel within the unit. I then placed an old towel inside the unit and used a hair dryer to melt the ice build up inside. I also removed the light bulb and then removed ice maker. I then located the old defrost thermostat and replaced it as demonstrated in the video. I then located temp sensor and replaced it. It took longer trying to secure the rear panels than the actual repair. My mistake was I had secured the ice maker unit before securing the fan panel. I would secure the large panel first, then followed by the light bulb/fan panel. The ice maker should go in last. It has been 8 days since the repair and it still working! The total cost was $27.

Very limited working space in this model. Must remove grill and disconnect elect connector on motor. One additiional tool suggested: Extendable rod with magnet on end because you will most likely drop something. First, remove two screws holding motor to metal strap. Tool must be inserted between blades of fan in order to get to the screws and this is the hard part. Fan and motor are removed as one assy and this takes some manuvering. Might have to remove front screw on metal strap to gain more room. I did not attempt to remove fan shroud. My fan was attached to the motor shaft with a metal clip. Spray a good lubricant such as PB Blaster on the shaft, wait a few minutes and press it or tap it out gently. Save misc parts on old motor for reassembly. Your set up may be different so check out everything before starting.

removed evaporator coil cover inside freezer, defrosted the coil with blow dryer, cut wires to defrost thermostat, removed old defrost thermostat, wired new one to old wires with wire nuts and then taped with black electrical tape, reattached defrost thremostat to evaporator coil, easy job, the thing that took the longest was thawing out all the ice

Replaced the Defrost Thermostat and the Defrost Heater.