HST22IFPHCC Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Wilbert from Fort Lauderdale, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR60X10220, WR60X10207
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Fan To Cool Condenser Not Working
1. Unplugged the refrigerator 2. Vacuum inside of dust 3. Unscrewed motor and fan 4. Replaced motor then fan 5. Plugged refrigerator bingo! :)
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- Customer:
- James from LaGrange, KY
- Parts Used:
- WR51X10101, WR50X10068
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
refrigerator wasn't cooling
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, it was really simple. I conected the new element & defrost themostat (instuctions were included with the parts). I replaced the cover pluged the fridge in everything was woking fine. I placed a themometer in the fridge & have been watching it for 2+ weeks now it is working fine. To anyone who is looking to do this repair, on thier own, I reccomend it. It was very simple & required little to no skill. No reasopn to throw away money to call a repair man.
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- Customer:
- Stephanie from Tampa, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR71X38317
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Dairy Door Cover had cracked
Repair took about 5 seconds. No directions necessary. Super easy.
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- Customer:
- William from West Union, SC
- Parts Used:
- WR17X22070
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
no problem
I had lost the provided bypass filter plug. I decided to replace it with your part.
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- Customer:
- David from Woodland Hills, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11497
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
A piece of the crusher cover broke off into the ice bin
I removed the ice bin, removed the metal rod off the bottom, unscrewed all screws holding things together and then carefully pried the crusher assembly out of the ice bin. I made the mistake of doing it when the bin was still frozen and ended up cracking it where the "clips" from the crusher are inserted. It was much easier after the bin warmed up.
Replaced and put everything back together.
Replaced and put everything back together.
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- Customer:
- Tracy from Yuba City, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR30X10093
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Stripper on the icemaker broke into pieces.
Remove the two nuts holding the top of the unit to the side of the freezer using a 1/4 in nutdriver. Pull the unit out and unplug it from the back of the freezer. Remove all pieces of the broken stripper. The replacement part fits onto a peg on the back of the icemaker and into a slot. Bend into place and slide into position.
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- Customer:
- Sharon from Glendale, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WR29X43990, WR17X11505
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The Ice Bucket Was Cracket And The Auger Also Broken.
I was able to order the correct parts . Needed my son in law (who in an engineer) to put it together. It was sort of a challenge forhim too. W the persons that I spoke to were very helpful and very nice and the parts came quickly. Thank heavens for the internet. The part that was broken was inside the freezer part of my frig.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Meridian, MS
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11168
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Wrench set
Icemaker supply hose leaking at freezer entrance
I did it the way you recommended except rather than removing the existing tube from the water valve at the bottom of the fridge I cut the existing and new tubes and then spliced the new tube to the old tube. I already had the splicer nut so it was quicker and easier. By the way, shipping was very quick and you prices and your website are excellent!
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- Customer:
- D from ZELLWOOD, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11653
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Flapper not sealing. Frost buildup on inside of freezer door
Followed previous instructions from a previous post. Inserted small screwdriver in the 2 outer holes up under the face plate to remove it then removed 4 screws holding the inner assembly which allowed access to the flapper assembly. Replaced it and reassembled everything. Problem solved
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- Customer:
- Heather from Pennington, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WR51X10101
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
loss of refrigeration
After mopping up the floor - the whole freezer that was iced up melted - that's how I found out about the problem...
Disconnected the power, emptied the freezer, removed the shelves. Under the ice maker was the light cover - I removed that first, then the two screws holding the back panel in place - The light panel was covering the top screw.
With the screws removed, I pulled out the back panel - which needs to be jiggled around a bit to get it past the shelf brackets.
With the cover off, I could see the mostly de-iced coil at the back of the unit. The defrost heater was visible at the bottom of the coil frame. To remove the bracket/heater, I removed the two cross head screws (one on each side) holding the bracket to the coil frame. I then twisted the side tabs of the bracket assembly and pulled the entire bracket/heater/wiring from the coil frame.
With better access tot he bracket/heater I was able to disconnect the wires. I grabbed the new bracket/heater, reattached the wires and pushed the bracket/heater back onto the coil frame and closed the side tabs firmly attaching the bracket to the frame. I then screwed the tabs back onto the frame.
Replaced the back panel, screwed it in place. Put back the light cover and then the shelves. Turned the appliance back on and left it for a few hours - before checking to see if there was any drop in temperature. There was, so after 24 hours or so I reloaded all the food...
NOTE: I was certain that the heater had failed! When I pulled the OLD one out it was obviously burned out - the glass tube was blackened and pieces of the element could be seen in the bottom of the tube.
Disconnected the power, emptied the freezer, removed the shelves. Under the ice maker was the light cover - I removed that first, then the two screws holding the back panel in place - The light panel was covering the top screw.
With the screws removed, I pulled out the back panel - which needs to be jiggled around a bit to get it past the shelf brackets.
With the cover off, I could see the mostly de-iced coil at the back of the unit. The defrost heater was visible at the bottom of the coil frame. To remove the bracket/heater, I removed the two cross head screws (one on each side) holding the bracket to the coil frame. I then twisted the side tabs of the bracket assembly and pulled the entire bracket/heater/wiring from the coil frame.
With better access tot he bracket/heater I was able to disconnect the wires. I grabbed the new bracket/heater, reattached the wires and pushed the bracket/heater back onto the coil frame and closed the side tabs firmly attaching the bracket to the frame. I then screwed the tabs back onto the frame.
Replaced the back panel, screwed it in place. Put back the light cover and then the shelves. Turned the appliance back on and left it for a few hours - before checking to see if there was any drop in temperature. There was, so after 24 hours or so I reloaded all the food...
NOTE: I was certain that the heater had failed! When I pulled the OLD one out it was obviously burned out - the glass tube was blackened and pieces of the element could be seen in the bottom of the tube.
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- Customer:
- Martin from Mount Pleasant, SC
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11269
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The rubber ice deflector fell off becasue the funnel failed
After removing the front cover to the control panel, I removed the 3 connectors. Then I removed the 4 screws and pulled out the assembly with the funnel.
The I had to lift the plastic tabs on the left and right to release the funnel. Reinstalling the funnel was a little tricker, trying to get the two plastic tabs, the spring and the tab that works the switch all in place at the same time. Then I installed the rubber deflector onto the funnel (the original problem.)
Finally reinsert the assembly, install the 4 screws, attach the 3 connectors, slide the panel back into place starting at the top and then the bottom
The I had to lift the plastic tabs on the left and right to release the funnel. Reinstalling the funnel was a little tricker, trying to get the two plastic tabs, the spring and the tab that works the switch all in place at the same time. Then I installed the rubber deflector onto the funnel (the original problem.)
Finally reinsert the assembly, install the 4 screws, attach the 3 connectors, slide the panel back into place starting at the top and then the bottom
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- Customer:
- Jeffrey from Williamsburg, VA
- Parts Used:
- WR17X22070
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
No longer needed water filters
Your website was very easy to use and the product shipped very promptly. It was great experience. Thanks!
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- Customer:
- Arthur from Alamosa, CO
- Parts Used:
- WR60X10220
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Condenser Fan Motor stopped turning
1. Unplugged the fridge. 2. unplugged the fan connection and removed the wire holding clip. 3. removed the 2 screws holding the motor bracket in place and removed the bracket. 4. Pulled gently back on the motor so that the fan pressed against the front bracket until the fan slid off the motor shaft. 5. Pulled the rubber motor mounts off of the old motor and placed on the new motor. 6. Slide the new motor in place pressed the fan all the way onto the shaft. 7. Placed the rear motor bracket in place and started the screws by hand making sure the ground wire was attached to the furthest away screw. 8. tightened the screws down. 9. Pushed in the wire holding clip into the clip hole. 10. Plugged back in the fan. 11. Plugged back in the fridge. 12. Turned down the temp on the fridge to kick on the compressor and checked to assure the fan was operating and then set the temp back to normal. 13. Vacuumed the condenser coils to get them all clean and ready for more years of service!
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- Customer:
- danny from west potsmouth, OH
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11653, WR17X23191, WR17X10706, WR02X10585
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Ice auger was broke and ice was freezing in the recess door
all parts worked and were easy to install. probably saved me from having to buy a new fridge. ice maker is working fine and recess door flap is closing correctly. very satisfied.
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- Customer:
- Jamison from Heltonville, IN
- Parts Used:
- WR57X33326
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Iced up Freezer compartment in SxS
So I replaced a burnt out defrost heater; replaced the thermostat for good measure and STILL the freezer compartment was freezing up. WHY didn't I look more closely at the ice making system sooner!!?? Thought about it for a while and decided that it had to be that the solenoid in the water valve was NOT shutting off water flow to ice maker (overflowing the icemaker and running over & down interior of freezer compartment making an icberg).
Took off about 4-5 backcover screws with one size nut driver. Moved to a size larger driver to remove 1 screw holding on the water valve. And what some people don't realize is that you can push in the connectors (push them down) and THEN pull the water lines out as long as you're careful and someone hasn't already tugged on the waterlines with some force. You don't have to cut the lines off at the valve. Put the water lines in the new valve and put one screw back in it; then 4-5 backcover screws and you're done!!! At most 15 minutes...that is if you want to clean the condensor unit located behind the backcover (on the newer models within the last 4-6 years).
EASY!!! Do it yourself and save a BUNCH of money. If you're getting a flooded freezer compartment or icebergs created in there then check whenever you hear the icemaker drawing in water and see if water is running down the interior.....problem solved!
Took off about 4-5 backcover screws with one size nut driver. Moved to a size larger driver to remove 1 screw holding on the water valve. And what some people don't realize is that you can push in the connectors (push them down) and THEN pull the water lines out as long as you're careful and someone hasn't already tugged on the waterlines with some force. You don't have to cut the lines off at the valve. Put the water lines in the new valve and put one screw back in it; then 4-5 backcover screws and you're done!!! At most 15 minutes...that is if you want to clean the condensor unit located behind the backcover (on the newer models within the last 4-6 years).
EASY!!! Do it yourself and save a BUNCH of money. If you're getting a flooded freezer compartment or icebergs created in there then check whenever you hear the icemaker drawing in water and see if water is running down the interior.....problem solved!
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