CSX22DJF Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

We only needed the rear plastic cylindrical helix. After installing it, there was a squeal of metal on metal due to insufficient clearance between the rear moving blade and the Ice dispenser plate.

Refrigerator Ice Maker 7/16” (or ½” hole, stainless steel) washer just behind #334 Rear Moving dispenser Blade PS292310 to give clearance so it doesn’t hit #345 / PS292441 Ice Dispenser Plate.

This was my first time at doing this so it took longer than someone experienced. But, it worked!

This was a 15 year old great working GE regrigerator. Refrigerator was not cooling properly, though the freezer worked great. Using flashlight, examined cam riser which was clearly broken. YOU MUST ORDER TWO GASKETS AS BOTH WILL BE WORN. After removing all food from the door, taped plastic sheet over the open space to keep food somewhat cool Removed top hinge cover and screws on top of door and lifted door out of bottom bracket placing it flat on kitchen island. Unscrewed hinge elements including old broken cam and shims form the bottom of the door and fit in the new cam. Unfortunately one of the shims was broken, so I used a thin plastic black washer from the hardware store which was big enough to fit over the pin on the bottom of the refrigerator itself. Screwed all the parts back together. Be VERY careful to note how you removed them in the first place...mabe take a digital foto or two. This was kind of tricky to remember. Then used a hammer and chisel to break off the rivit holding the bottom hinge elements on the refrigerator. Sawing with jigsaw didn't work that well. The rivit came right off. Then used a flat head screw, lock washer and nut instead of a reivit and attached the new second cam riser. You are now done with the new parts. Simply reattached the door and it closed like new. Had a simultaneoius problem with a faulty defrost heater in the freezer which also had to be replaced and which was really easy to do. About an hour max. This was the real cause of the refrigerator not cooling properly. But that's another story.

Remove the one screw holding the unit in place, unplug it, slide in the replacement, plug and screw it in.

Removed four screws at bottom of door, while someone held the door in place replaced the upper cam (there are two) applied some silicone plumbers lube between the mating surfaces and tightened it up. Works like new bottom cam was only slightly worn. P.S. Remove everything from the door first.

First a big thank you to PartSelect.com. I read the stories posted by others before ordering the parts and found out that I probably needed 2 of these cams. So I followed the advice of others and ordered 2 cams. I'm really glad I did because once I got the door off I discovered both were broken up real bad. Maybe you guys should think about offering them as a set?
Anyway the repair was fairly easy, except for the bottom cam which was revited to the bottom bracket. Again, thanks to the other stories about repairs with this part I was already expecting this. So the repair went like this. I removed the door by unscrewing the hinge on top(1 screw and 2 bolts). Took the door off and laid it on its side. Removed the bottom bracket( 2 bolts). Used a drill to drill out the rivit. Used a spare screw/nut that I had in a tool box to fasten the cam to the bracket. Put it all back together and I was done. The biggest challenge was figuring our if I needed 2 cams,so with the advice of others on your site, my repair was a snap.

I was set to buy a new magnetic seal to hold the door closed, when I looked it up on PartSelect I saw the recommendation that the problem might be the door closing cam.. I check it with a mirror and sure enough the cam had broken and the door sagged about 1/4 inch. I then followed the instruction and removed the top hinge, lifted the door off and replaced the cam. I did need two and the one attached to the lower hinge had to be drilled out and a new screw and nut attached to hold the cam. It was simple to do, I would recommend selling the door closing cam be sold in pairs with a #10 1/2 inch long screw with lock nut.

I glued the old rail back together twice prior to resorting to ordering the the replacement drawer rail from parts direct. Don't bother glueing the old parts, just buy a new one. Keep the screws from the old drawer rail as new screws are not shipped with the replacement rail. Only took 10 minutes to replace the rail needing only a phillips screwdriver. Good as new.

- Remove drawer and cover being supported by this slide. - Remove front and back screws with the screw driver. - Replace the above removed screws using the new slide. - Replace drawer and cover. DONE

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

This one is a no brainer… One Phillips screw on top to pull top door hinge trim. Two nuts and the top hinge is free. Then pull the door… it helps if you unload all the crap in the door bins. Remove the remnants of the door cam and that leaves a pop rivet. Put some vise grips on the head and use a hacksaw to remove the lower part of the rivet. Then pop-rivet the new door cam in place. If you don’t own a pop-rivet tool, I guess you could use a 10/32” screw and nylock. Plop the door back on and you’re done. Took all of about 15 minutes.

I removed the top shelf and removed broken rail and instaled new rail only two screws .

First i removed two screws that holds the ice maker in, unplug the plug to the ice maker. I was able to remove the old one. Place the new one in screwed in the two screws and pluged in the plug and in just a little while i had ice again. I am a women, if i can do it any one can. I had a repair man tell me it was going to be $250.00 dollars to replace it. I got on line ordered the ice maker and had it in 4 days. Very fast shipping and easy to install. Tina Kearns Beaumont, Calif

Watched the video very good. Thank You

Video is a great but still need to read the instuctions because there are parts you may need on the old ice maker. Saved myself a bit of money by not having to call a repairman. The process was very simple. I am glad I did it myself. Thank you Parts Select!

unplug refrigerator. Remove Ice bin then remove the cover off the ice maker,(slides off from bottom then lift off top) no reason to remove ice maker completely. Remove center gear screw and remove main gear from Ejector blade. remove (3) screws holding the front plate. The motor and switches are attached to this plate from behind, do not remove the nut from the from the stud that adjusts the travel for the motor. The Motor and switches will come upt with the plate and the shut off arm will come out of a hole in the top right. Its ok just be careful when you put it back to get it in the hole. remove the old cam and replace it wint the new one and reassemble. Its a bit tricky to get all of the microswitches over the new cam just carefully wiggle the plate and cam and don't push too hard. once everything is lined up it should go back together and you can replace the screws and main gear :)