CST20KABGWH Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

Not really sure of the age of this fridge, as we bought the house 2.5 yrs ago.

I'm one who if it can go wrong, it will, so not realizing how stable the door was from just having the top hinge and the magentic gasket, I declined to prop the door up on blocks the way some guys say the did, and instead removed the top hinge and lifted the whole door off the bottom hinge. I traced the outline of all parts with a felt pen before removing them, figuring I'd need witness marks to help with realignment after the install.
Nut driver might've been an easier choice than the socket set, but the only ones I have a brittle and I've broken the 5/16"...
All parts came out/off easily. The new bottom hinge and the old top hinge (both on the fridge side) practically aligned itself right on my marks, and the new cam (door side) just needed to be held while the screws were tightened. I used the extensioni rod off the ratchet to drive the screws most of the way (making a nutdriver out of it).
Parts were exactly as advertised, although there was a note in the package that stressed the need to replace both parts at the same time due to material differences in the original and replacement parts. Since the cam is sold separately without the hinge, it would be good for the website to reflect that before the purchase is made. Also, even though it was only the cam on the hinge and not the whole hinge that needed to be replaced, I could've bought hte two cams separately and drilled out the rivet as another person had done, but for the $5 difference in cost, why bother?
Door now closes itself as designed, albeit slower than the freezer side, but the Wife says it always did that.
Also interesting that when first assembled, the door DIDN'T close itself at first... not sure it it needed to wear a litle, or if it just needed the added weight of having items back in the door shelves.
Love the great website... just typed in the model number and the parts I needed, complete with drawings to make sure, were right there. Great UI.

remove screws in back panel and remove , defrost coils wit hair dryer,remove two screws that hold defrost heater unplug wire's.plug in new heater put screws back in ,put panel and screws in ...done

Take off the panel in the freezer side to expose the heater, defrost all the ice. Remove the screws that hold the heater in place and remove the wires from each end. Plug in the new unit and replace screws. Replace screws in the freezer panel, to complete the instulation. It will take the most time to defrost the ice, and clean up the water. To help defroct I used my wifes hair dryer. (She did not know it)

Remove the hinge cap on top, the loosen the bolts, remove the hinge. Pick up the door from the lower hinge, lay it down and place the cam riser on the lower hinge. Replace the door, install the top hinge and check the alignment and you are done.

Removed the evaporator panel's cover. The ice covers up the defrost heater. Use heat gun to melt the ice on the defrost heater then removed the 2 screws, pull it out and check its resistance (it was open). After replaced the deforst heater, the refrig. works OK.

remove plastic top hinge cover then twoscrews holding door with door closed it rested against freezer door then lefted off door put on flat surface remove tow screws at bottom of door installed new cam

Emptied the refrigerator door so it was easier to take off. Used a screwdriver to remove the screw on the top hinge. Lifted door off bottom hinge. Laid the door down so I could take the bottom hinge off. Removed worn out parts and placed the new one on. Slipped door back on hinge,made sure it would close properly and was lined up with freeze door. Put top hinge back in place. Done!! Now door finally shuts on its own again!!! EASY!!!

1 Unplugged Refrigerator and removed all the freezer shelves.
2. Removed the light bulb in the back of the freezer.
3. Removed rear panel on back wall of freezer. I had to do some defrosting on the back panel due to frost build-up.
4. Defrosted cooling coils using a hair dryer. This took a considerable amount of time due to frost build-up. Also, there was a considerable amount of water run off due to melting. I plugged the drain, and used towels and a bucket to soak up the water.
5. Removed the old element located at the bottom of the cooling coils and removed the wires from each end.. At that time, I also notice when the directions referred to "right" and "left", the point of reference was from looking out of the unit (not facing the unit).
6. Reroute the pink wire on the left side to the right side of the freezer coil. The defrost heater element I removed was a single heating element and the element I purchased was a double heating element. I then attached the blue and pink wires to the right side of the heating unit. (The pink wire was sufficiently long to reach the element. I did not need to splice an extension into it). The yellow "jump" wire was on the left side of the heating unit.
7. Attached the new heater to the freezer coil framing with the two screws.
8. Reinstalled the back freezer panel.
9. Reinstalled the freezer shelves.
10. I plugged in the unit to restart the refrigerator.

The defrosting took a considerage amount of time. Otherwise would have taken about 30-45 minutes.

First of all I'm 76 years old. The same thing happened 5 years before and I had a service man out to fix it. I did what he did. Unplug the heater from the harness and plug in the new heated.

1. Opened rear panel of freezer, exposed the evaporator which covered with ice. Using warm water to melt down the ice, and found the bad heater.Reinstall the rear panel, the referigerator working again, without the heater.
2. Ordered the defrost heater from you.
3. 4days later, the heater assembly arrived. I opened the rear panel of freezer again, replaced the heater. The problem fixed.
This is the second time to replace the heater assembly. GE stuff looks like not very good quality.

1. Blocked up the door keep it steadily and enable ease access to screws.
2. Removed screws holding the door closing cam and lower door attach bracket.
3. Disconnected clamp holding the water supply line for the water and ice dispenser and disconnected the water line at the joint.
4. Removed the broken cam and put the new one in it's place, threading the water supply line through the hole of the cam.
5. Put everything back together in reverse sequence of removal.

I had the refridgerator given to me by a friend who was tired of defrosting it. I took the cover off of the inside of freezer to expose evaporator and found defroster heater was bad. I replaced the heater , the unit works great , now i have approximately fifety dollars into a refridgerator that sells for about a thousand

Followed Included instructions. My Fridge only had a single element heater; so I had to cut, strip, and relocate one of the lead wires for the heater. Overall it was a very easy fix.

I saw ice on the back panel in the freezer. I removed 4 screws and took the panel off. I read other repair stories on this site and decided it was my defroster that was broken. I am a handyman, but never tried to work on a fridge before. It was very easy. Instructions that came with it were very easy to follow.

Removed the refrigerator door. Replaced the cam riser bushing on the bottom of the door. I then removed the hinge bracket on the bottom of the refrigerator after removing the grill (oh yuk, what a mess under the refrigerator). I put the new bracket on and replaced the door. All is working well again. Thanks for the hints and the parts.