HTS22GBPBRWW Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

remove shelf above tray to access rail. remove broken rail. use screws from broken rail to attach rail to shelf.

Removed shelf from refrigerator, screwed on new shelf support, replaced shelf. Got a kiss from my wife for fixing her 'fridge.' Easy!

I sent back the other one with the print out for FedEx that your company e-mail to me and then i put the new one in, very easy took a few min's
Thank you Mr. Phillip Lewis

Attempted it on my own with the aid of the video on your site, but could not remove the fan shroud due to additional copper lines that prevented me from getting it out.
Gave up and called an appliance repair guy. He had a novel approach: Don't pull the fan shroud (with motor attached) out, but instead remove one of the screws holding the motor into the bracket, then bend the bracket to get the motor out.
All good until we powered the fridge on again. Now the fan works, but spins faster (and makes more noise than) the original fan.
The repair guy's comment: "I've seen that before with some of the aftermarket fans."
Nice! I'd appreciate getting the right part when I order the part from your website based on my fridge model number.

Laying on my side.

Simply followed the video -- VERY helpful... BUT: getting the bottom tab to re-insert into the holder after the motor was replaced was VERY difficult...!!! Until I discovered that I could move the refrigerant coil (upon which the tab mounts) just enough that I could get the tab inserted...!!! "Twas NOT as simple as it looked on the film...

Being able to move both the fan motor holder (with the tab) AND the coil made it happen, easily...

Bent the motor bracket down, then using a rat tail file, elongated the holes in the back panel of the refrigerator to secure the fan in the "centered" position. This was a problem that was with the refrig. since it was made. The parts involved were perfect. NO problem at all installing them.

I followed your video and completely dismantled the refrigerator evaporator motor, fan, brackets, and grommet, I completely cleaned the refrigerator including the cooling coils. I then ordered the evaporator motor ,fan, grommets, lid bumper, and brackets. The order would take a week to arrive. In the meantime I cleaned and reassembled all the old parts, waiting for the new ones to come. Guess what! The refrigerator was quiet as a mouse. I really did not need the new parts, but I kept them anyway just for good luck. Not bad for a refrigerator that's twenty four years old.

Must have spent 10+ hours solid looking up info on the internet. Our ice maker had broken years ago, the door flap had broken years ago and I thought this was the end of a fridge after just 6 years 8 months.

GE offered a "broken appliance" warranty for $379 for one year, with no guarantee that when a technician came to look at it, the repairs would be covered by the warranty!!! No thank you, you just want me to buy a new fridge. Okay, challenge on, I'll fix it myself.

I took everything from the back of the freezer out. Spent an hour defrosting (note: use hair dryer next time). Ruled out a motherboard problem (even though it appears I have the old style motherboard), removed dust build up from fan intake. I could not get the heater to come on, so I cut off the thermostat defroster and connected the wires together. The only way to get the heater on was to set the freezer control to 0 / zero.

So, ordered part from partselect.com and it arrived the next day!!!. Installed and unit appears to be defrosting okay after a week.

So now I'm back to order the ice maker part. The door flap will wait for another time.

Note: I've put in the time for novices and recognizing how the freezer is constructed.

Time includes taking everything out of the freezer section, unscrewing everything, diagnosing problem, fixing the problem, putting everything back. I would say allow 3-4 hours and pat yourself on the back if you do it quicker.

Note#2, if you have a large build up there is a hole in the floor of the freezer section. If the water does not evaporate it will run out of the hole and into your wooden floors! Place towels both inside and outside the unit just in case!

I have not yet done the repair. After watching this repair video two problems came to mind. First I only ordered one grommet not knowing that there were two (or more I don't yet know). The second problem is that this video must be for a fridge from like the 1940, but it looks NOTHING like mine from 2008. The manual shows a bazillion parts and frankly I'm just a wee bit afraid to get started, and I am generally very handy, buuuttttttttt I don't know about this one

Gaskets designed to just press a flange into channel around doors. I tried everything..I pre-heated gaskets ; I put dish soap around flange; I used (carefully) a heat gun as I pressed gasket in. Really very difficult to get the gasket to seat fully. I don't know if there is a tool to help you do this, but you need strong fingers/thumbs and endurance. Once seated, you will need to heat the gasket to get it to fully seal against the fridge. Just lightly heat along the gasket with the doors closed and press open the fold with your fingers. I let the doors stay closed over night. Works great now, but I probably will call a repairman the next time. I miss the old gaskets with a zillion screws..PITA, but easier.

I didn’t do the repair because I ordered two grommets. When they arrived, one of the packages was empty! Instead of just sending me another one, they refunded the part so I still need one. By the way, I was not refunded half the shipping either which was more than the part itself.

turn off the refrigerator,then open the cover and saw lot of ice. then get a hair dryer blower and blow a heat to melt the ice. cut the thermostat defrost.

Easy

Find online diagram of freezer section for reference. Disconnect power, remove evap cover plate (214) by removing one of the drawer guide rails.

As evidence of your problem, you might see a giant block of ice built up around the coil. Let this defrost this before continuing.

Find THERMOSTAT DEFROST (24) sensor and clip connecting wires. Match replacement sensor wires by color. Twist and solder wires; or wire-nuts and twisting alone might be okay. If not soldering, seal the wire-nuts connections from moister with a good sizeable piece of duct tape. Make sure your wires are out of the way and not left dangling on the evap heater coil, where they could melt.

Suggest concurrent replacement of evap fan motor if this has not already been done in the past.. This become noisy with age and damage from the ice build up seems to have made mine worse.