CTF23EFB Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP

put the gratefruit knife behind the old switch pooped it out pluged the new one in piece of cake 5min.even vacumed the dust off the coil

Unplugged fridge.Removed 2 screws holding a panel. After panel removed took off old fan and inserted new. Quite simple.

Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

took a little more effort than the video show to remove old module and replace new. Works fine now.

Removed the broken fan blade (just pulled off) and replaced with part purchased PartSelect. Very easy repair, no tools required.

It was way to ez to install only a couple of minutes that's it

Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.

took the old piece out, installed the new, replaced the retainer..Done

Just as your video described, although due to the age of the fridge, it took a bit longer to remove the defective switch. Your video made this so simple, I can't imagine why we lived with a dark fridge for so long! I was ready to buy a whole new fridge, as repairmen are often nonexistent for small repairs. I am the biggest fan of your company & it's repair video. THANK YOU SO MUCH

I pryed the old end caps off the bar with pliers being careful not to bend the metal retaining tab on the bar. The new bar end caps snapped right on the bar and the new end caps / bar assembly snapped right into the slot on the door. Very Easy Repair.

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

Naturally you have to push the frig from the wall and unplug it form the wall outlet and while you are removing and installing the old motor and installing the new motor. Do not open any of the frig and freezer door untill you are finished and you plug the power cord back into the wall outlet. Remove the lower back panel with a screw driver or a 5/16th hex driver. It is a kind of carboard. Once all the screws are out of that panel pull the top out from behind the steel above and then pull it out from the bottom and set it aside. Unplug the power line off of the motor. There are 3 separate brakets holding the motor in place. 1st remove the fan from the motor by romving the finger nut off the motor shaft and then remove the 1st bracket screw from the bracket all the way. Then use a light to see the other 2 screws and you will see that you do not have to take them all the way out like the first one. Just loosen the other 2 and then turn the motor and brackets counter clockwise and then pull the motor and brackets all out as one from the right hand side of where the brackets were mounted. I took the motor and brackets to the counter and removed te brackets from the motor and installed them to the new motor making sure that the bracket with the one screw hole in it is mounted at the right place so that when you reenstall the motor and brackets will let the motor wire connector be the closest to the outside where you can replug the power cord back onto the motor. Install the fan onto the new motor with the new finger nut that comes with the new motor. replace the back panel and pkug in the power cord fot the frig and let it run. Mine ran a lot quieter after the new motor was plugged in. Have fun if you have to do it. It is worth it.

I followed the instructions verbatim as others explained. I did it step by step exactly as instructed, The timing was almost exact no more than 30 minutes. I removed the fan the night before the delivery of the new fan and used a small desk fan to cool the compressor. It worked fine in one half hour my freezer read a perfect zero. Thanks for all the help