R226D011 Hoover Refrigerator - Instructions

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.

After taking advice from the other posts, I removed all contents from the door, removed the screws from the top hinge and then lifted the door off the bottom hinge pin.

While door was lying flat I unscrewed the old natural closer, replaced it with the new one. Swapped out the old lower hinge pin with the new one.

I then had someone help me lift the door back on the hinge pin and fastened the top hinge screws while they held the door in place.

It worked perfectly and was very easy.

I removed the top refrigerator side hinge screws. The door came right off. Slipped in the lower hinge pin.. Unscrewed the natural door closer and replaced. Reinstalled the door. It is unfortunate that these parts are plastic. They wear out way too soon. No, the door is not over weighted. If you have no weight in the door the plastic shelves will hinder the door closing. Putting stuff on the shelves makes them take their proper form.

It is the model with the french door. I unplugged it, removed two screws at the bottom of the door, while holding the door from sliding down. Removed the door and put it on its side. Removed one screw that was holding the hinge, removed the hinge and replaced it with the new one. Put the door back on (do not forget to reinstall the shims).
Did the same thing on the other door. After putting the door back on readjusted the height to level the door, using height adjustment screw. Lock the door in place. It now works better then new

I followed the directions from John from Virginia Beach, with the added warning: Unplug the electrical connection and bring the whole ice enclosure out before you remove screws holding the relay and motor to it so you can see how it goes together. When you remove the relay, notice that a metal cylinder (Michael from Vienna Va calls it a magnet) slides out of it. If possible, keep this unit together. If it comes apart, notice there is a spring on this metal rod. Don't lose the spring and remember how it all goes back together. This job was just as easy as it should have been.

I pulled the drive ring off of the icemaker and replaced it with the new part. Saved a $150 service call plus cost of part. It cost me a little over $11.00 and a repairman probably would have charged $30.

I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.

Removed refrigerated items in door, (3) screws in top hinge bracket & lifted door off lower bracket. Turned door on side & removed lower hinge brkt. & old hinge pin. Replaced with new parts & reassembled door. Luckily I had some grease to apply to parts before reassembly.

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Removed old ejector arm and installed new part.