HRNS2015 (BP04D) Hoover Refrigerator - Instructions

evaporator coils were frozen solid and air wasn't flowing across them

read all directions first, then consider which steps you'd like to take

in any case...
- check for blockages in the upper and lower air vents that allow air from freezer side to cool the fridge-side
- inspect that the fan in the freezer side is actually turning and not blocked


- if no blockages and air is flowing between the sides...

- unplug the unit
- remove all goods from freezer and fridge
- remove freezer side racks
- remove rear panel on freezer side using philips screwdriver (note that the ice-cube tray motor housing must be freed by removing its screws. it can be pull out a bit to get to a single screw holding the top of the rear panel in place)
- allow the evaporator coils to evaporate all ice off, checking the drain pan under the fridge frequently - accelerate the process using a hair dryer or paint stripper (heat gun)
- disconnect the white wires from the connection block located about 2/3 of the way up the rear wall and check resistance using an ohmeter (see specs on back of fridge on circuit diagram)
- if you get a very high resistance reading, the heater element is likely broken. if so...
-- remove the 2 metal shields located horizontally across the evaporator coils (behind them are the two series-connected defrost heater elements)
-- visually inspect the elements - if they are discolored green or black, remove and inspect more closely (most likely they are blown, just like a light-bulb filament that shows black on the glass)
-- if you see nothing, remove them anyway (since high reading) and check connectors
-- replace them (likely only $30 to $75, depending on type)

- if coils seem ok, or if not suspect, check the defrost thermostat WHILE IT IS STILL IN A WORKING/COLD FREEZER.
- get the defrost thermostat into a coil chamber (other freezer or bucket of ice?) and check resistance using an ohmeter. It must be WELL-BELOW 40F to test it. When it is truly immersed in cold (as it would be in a working freezer), test the resistance. it should be 0-ohms when <<40F and some much higher resistance (>200KOhms) when > 40F.
- if not, replace it

-lastly, if neither the defrost heater elements are bad nor the defrost thermostat is bad, open up the defrost timer
-- the defrost timer is located in the fridge side, likely with the fridge thermostat knobs/controller
-- it is a 5-pin part that cannot be repaired. If all else is checked, most likely the defrost element is never coming on because the timer is not turning it on

First had to remove baskets and door from freezer. Removed three screws; removed old ice maker; Attached new ice maker with three screws; removed arm from old ice maker and placed in the new ice maker. Replaced door and baskets

Unplug fridge, unpluged fan motor from plug socket, removed bracket screws, removed fan retainer clip from shaft. removed screws holding fan to bracket

I performed basic troubleshooting to make sure there was power and water. Based on historical research on this particular ice maker, I decided that the best direction was to replace the entire assembly. I found this item on this site, ordered it and received it a few days later. I basically removed the ice pan and a few items in the freezer, removed the three mounting screws with either a flat blade screwdriver or nut driver, pulled the electrical harness out of the back wall of the freezer and transferred it to the new ice maker and then installed the new unit, really that simple. Iwas concerned at first, not seeing any activity in the new ice maker but after 15 minutes or so I heard ice falling into the ice bin. Well worth replacing seeing how simple this job was.

Removed old icemaker by removing two hex screws and one phillip's head screw.

Disconnected power connection to refrigerator.

Removed power connection harness and ice level sensor arm/levor and cover from old ice maker and installed on new ice maker.

Re-installed in refrigerator. It was simple on this model.

There are 3 screws holding the icemaker in place. After removing the ice bucket, I removed the screws, then twisted the unit to gain access to the power plug. The plug is held in place by a plastic flap which is part of the connector. It has to be pushed down to remove the connector. The new unit went in perfectly and performed flawlessly for 3 days until the compressor blew out! After feeling some sense of accomplishment having fixed the icemaker, I learned that my neglecting to clean the vent grill in the front of the refrigerator had caused its demise. Don't forget to clean the dust out of the vents!

Saw many photos on the Internet that looked like my ice maker, but they were different. I put in my Refrigerator model No. and found my exact replacement ice maker right away. I was a little cautious, because the new one didn't include the wiring harness, or the plastic cover. I took the chance and ordered it. Super fast delivery, a Day or 2 at most. Everything went smoothly, and after the new one was in, I crossed my fingers until the timer kicked in, and I started hearing ice cubes falling in the tray about 3 hours later. Success! I had been having problems with the ice maker almost from the beginning. Hopefully, the replacement will last longer. I will say that this Maytag Fridge. is the absolute worst kitchen appliance I've ever owned in my 47 years of house keeping! The defroster went in the freezer a couple of months after the Warranty ended, and it cost me $375.00 to have a Tech, come in to repair. I got away easy this time, buying the ice maker for $135.00 and being able to do the work myself.

Jim

I removed 7 screws hold the heavy cardboard cover on the rear of the fridge. The dificult part was taking the screws that hold the 3 fan motor braces on the fan out. After that it was a matter of making the wire conections and putting it back in. I did not have enough room to laydown to do the work, If i had it would have been a lot easier to see the screws that had to be removed. All in all an easy job, and the part was a perfect fit.

When that one came and I went to install it, I found that my fridge was so old (almost 30 years) that the wire harness on the old icemaker could not be transferred to the new one. The old one was hand wired into the guts of the machine with wire nuts and other connectors. The new unit needs a plug in harness to match a plug connection on the ice maker. Also, the bent wire arm that senses ice bin levels was different, old unit hooked in with clips and such, new one pops into a socket in the new ice maker.

I called PartSelect back again, and the clerk spent a lot of time in the books (no parts in the online listings) and found new style connector and wire arm. Another 25 dollars and problem is solved.

Once those parts came, the actual installation was a breeze. Remove three screws, unplug the ice maker from the back wall of the fridge, plug new wire harness into new ice maker and the back wall of the frige, install new ice maker with the same three screws, pop the new style bent wire arm into place and pop the plastic cover from the old ice maker onto the front of the new one. Done! Took me ten minutes (plus two weeks of chasing parts, but only half an hour of actual time in those two weeks).

I let it make a couple of loads of ice that I disposed of (to capture any dust and crud that might have been on or in the new ice maker) and then turned it loose. We had a nice full bin of ice in the morning.

I disconnected power, turned off water supply, removed three hexhead screws, disconnected wiring harness plug, then reversed procedure. New icemaker seens to be a little slower in making cubes. However, the cubes are clean, perfect shape and THEY DO NOT CONTAIN ANY OF THE BLACK COATING AS THE OLD ICE MAKER CAUSED. THIS WAS A FAIRLY SIMPLE TASK.

The video of the installation was the best help I have ever had. Rather that vague written instructions that are usually so poorly written they are of no help, the video showed exactly how to do it. I wish everyone provided videos like this!

Arrived soon than expected. Unplugged some wires, removed face plate, 3 screws--install and do reverse.

Easier than I would think---Saved $150- to have someone else do it.

Works fine.

Five minutes with a phillips screw driver and the cube maker was changed. . . In the process, I failed to unplug the unit, and shorted the fill valve in the back. Again, five minutes with a nut driver and it was changed. No need for a PHD or the cost of a service technician for either job.

Replaced Icemaker

Removed old ice maker, had to use the wire shutoff from old ice maker installed new one. Very easy repair, very nice product cheapest price on internet.