GRT17G4BW1 Gibson Refrigerator - Instructions

Wow. What an easy repair. It was so easy I literally had my 10 year son complete the repair.

(Handyman requirement for Cub scouts).

Removed 1 screw and pulled out old broken guide rail, replaced with new part and screwed it back in.

It took long to wash and clean the shelves we pulled out than it did to make the repair.

easy. took glass tray that held meat draw out. unscrewed old rail screw new one in. put glass try back in frig. put meat try back in.

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.

Looked up similar problems and found it to be the defrost timer. All I had to do was remove the plastic portion in the fridge section to get to the old timer. Popped the new one in and put it back together. Works great now. Would have been almost $150 to have a repair company come out and fix it.

Snapped the new rack right into place.

Took one screw out to remove the old rail off by removing one screw placed the new one into the slot and replaced the screw and put the drawer back into the refrigerator

Pulled the drawer out, lifted the shelf out of the refrigerator, unscrewed drawer slides from shelf and rescrewed the new drawer slides and returned the shelf, drawer, and the job was finished. Thank you so very much for your speedy delivery.

I removed the housing at the top of the refrigerator compartment that contained the reefer light and temperature adjustment knob. This required a small nut-driver. Inside, I found the old defrost control, unplugged it, unscrewed it with a Phillips screwdriver, and replaced it with the replacement part. Then I replaced the housing to its original position.

Checked for continuity in heater, defrost thermostat and defrost timer. Heater good; not sure about thermostat or timer. Replaced thermostat - no change. Replaced timer - rotating and heater working.

Removed the screws on the piece holding the switch which is at the front of the ceiling of the refrigerator box. Removed the old switch and replaced it. Very simple repair.

I watched the video on how to change the defrost thermostat. I removed the back cover inside the freezer then I pulled off the old defrost thermostat and then using a pair of wire cutters I cut it off and then bared a little of both of the wires and then slid the heat sherink and wire connectors on the existing wires and then slid the other ends of the wires into the wire connectors then crimped the ends of the connectors and then tried using heat on the heat shrinks but still used rubber electric tape over it. I clipped the new thermostat were the old one was and then reattached the freezer wall cover and plugged the refrigerator back in. 24 hours later I checked the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer and both are running a lot colder.

I stuck a small screw driver under the old switch & it came out really easy. I just unplugged the 2 electrical connectors, and removed the old switch. Installing the new one was just as easy. I am a woman!

I also want to say how FAST PartSelect gets their items to you. It came in ONE day!

Your repair stories are very helpful, I/we would have never known how easy this switch was to replace! Thank you!

Removed four screws for cover on refrigerator temperature controls, unpluged old timer and pluged in new timer. Replaced cover and screws.

Piece of cake! The new part just plugged in to socket and back into fridge frame. Appreciated how easy it was to order this part.

Screwdriver