GRT21TRCD2 Gibson Refrigerator - Instructions

Took old defrost pan off, put new one on. Had to bend new defrost pan a little for it to fit..

The meat drawer is already pulled out because the broken rail could not support it. 1st I removed the shelf. Then I removed the 2 screws connecting the rail to the shelf. I then replaced the rail, screwed it together and put the shelf back in place. I put the meat drawer back on the rails and it's done.

Moved the old gasket aside to gain access to retaining screws in top freezer door. The new seal in the container we received was twisted, so laid it flat and used a hair dryer (as you advised) to regain the proper shape. Did everything possible, to align the gasket. Opened the freezer door to remove the retaining screws, began to reinstall the new gasket. The top came down both sides well. Attempted to install screws across the bottom, the gasket was so twisted would not conform back into the retaining frame on the bottom of the door. Therefore, it fits poorly. No proper seal. Sincerely, Jesse & Mary(also, the bottom of the freezer door plastic form was very brittle, broke where the screws fit....so we had to make a piece formed like a strip to re-enforce the areas that 'cracked' off so as the screws could align the bottom areas.

Followed on line video. Also water supply tube on fridge was full of ice. You can pull it out and run hot water on it to clear.

I found that the fill solenoid for the ice maker was down to a drip when energized. I ordered from this site and replaced. now plenty of water, but the ice maker would just stall and jump teeth. The heater which heats the ice up to free it from the mold was defective. Ordered from this site, and now working great.this sitet has good pricing, and the help illustration is great, and explains the sequence of events. This made it easy to troubleshoot. This refrigerator has not give a problem in over 11 years. The problem is "the ice maker". I have replaced it 6 times.

Problems. Two screws holding temperature control module to the plastic case did not fit the holes in temperature controler were too big. So I used gorilla glue to help secure but it was still loose a little bit with all the connections made i turned it on but it did not work

A little research told me the hum plus no cooling was either the compressor or the relay. I ordered the new relay and put it in but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up having to buy a new fridge, but it was worth the $30 gamble to see if I could fix it on the cheap and it saved me the money a service call would've cost. Pretty easy installation, just in a tight space on my model.

Unplug refrigerator , loosing two screws. Lift ice maker up to remove from position. Disconnect electrical connection. Reverse procedure to install new ice maker.

I unsnapped the old clips from the bar, installed one end cap to freezer door, clipped other end cap to bar, slid bar into end cap installed in door then snapped other end cap into place. Repeated for second shelf bar as those end caps were broken as well. No tools were needed.

It was very simple, used a nut driver to loosen the attachment nuts that held the ice maker in place. Disconnected the wiring harness. Removed the leveling tab from old ice maker and attached it to the new one. Then reassembled in the reverse order. As they say it was no brainer! The best part of the repair, was hearing the ice dump.

Removed 2 screws that hold ice maker in place. Unplugged and took out of freezer. Used the screws I took out to put new ice maker in. Plugged in the power and in 2 days I had a full ice bin and haven't had any worries since. Should have replaced the broken one along time ago but thought that the process was harder than this. Very easy and suggest this to anyone having ice maker issues. Less than $100 and never have to buy ice for the house again.

Ordered ice maker, watch video of how to. It takes less than 5 min. Installes just like the video. Loosen 2 1/4" Screws, lift ice maker up, unplug old unit, Reverse. Just make sure water tube is lined up when you install new unit and wire is tucked up out of the way. Mine did not really start making ice till the next day.

unplug power from ref removed old light socket only difference wired a little different checked new socket compaired to old checked terminal ends small big looked at wires big,little plugged up put in new light blub plugged ref power back on work power off pushed socket bac in power on works

After realizing the engineering on this dryer was different, I was able to access the temperature control thermostat through the front, along the side of the heating element. Several philips screws hold the front on, removing them allows you to take front panel off. At that point the heating element is below. I took a picture of the wires, so that when I started removing them, it would be easy to reconnect. Two screws hold the heating element in place, upon removing the heating element housing pulls gently forward and out, be careful of the wires, the thermostat is the second thing connected to the housing of the heating element. Two more philips screws hold the housing to the bottom of the dryer. Two wires are removed from thermostat, which is also held in place by two philips screws. Remove wires, one at a time and place on thermostat exactly as they were on old thermostat. Hold new thermostat in place with the two Philip screws, and reassemble in reverse order. And enjoy your working dryer once more, hopefully for years to come.

They were the wrong parts. I read a question another person asked and it advised to order these parts. Didn't want to waste my time anymore and threw them away.