GRS20ZRHW3 Gibson Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the back cardboard cover and then 1 retaining screw from the back of valve. Unhooked all 3 tubes from valve (careful to remember which on went were), removed the 2 electrical connectors attached to the solenoids. replaced all the connectors and water lines onto new valve and tested for leaks then I moved back under the fridge where it was mounted and tightened retaining screw, checked for leaks then Pushed the fridge back in. Works Great!

Real simple repair..just backed off the two 1/4" hex bolts holding the ice maker to the wall of the fridge,(a little tricky since you can't see them),unclipped the electrical doo hickey. I re-clipped the electrical do hickey of the new ice maker, hung the ice maker on the bolts and then re-tightened them. However,still no ice,my problem was the water valve on the back of the fridge behind the cardboard. Although it was still giving H2O thru the door it was not allowing water to flow to the ice maker. I reccommend pouring some water into the ice tray of the ice maker. If it makes ice and dumps it in to the holder, your ice maker is OK. If it turns out to be your water valve, that fix is easy as well. I HIGHLY reccommend watching the "fix it" video associated with that part. That repair also took less than 15 minutes. Good Luck! KC Bridgewater,NJ

I checked all areas such as water flow in the door and to see if any of the lines from the water valve was clogged. After finding that the lines were clear and the water flow was good through the door. I also checked the Ice maker to make sure it was going through its cycles. I also noticed the valve was making a loud noise when it would try to put water in the Ice maker. I did check the line to the Ice maker inside the refrigerator to see if the water had frozen in the tube. I removed the two screws that hold in the valve and reconnected the water line and the line heading to the lce maker and now my Ice maker is fully functional and making ice like always. The repair was easy and anyone could do it. Also remember to unplug appliances when you work on them, just a safety reminder.

I removed the plastic shroud on the ceiling of the refigerator, unscrewed and unplugged the old defrost timer, and replaced it with the new one. I reinstalled the shroud with the new timer installed.

Loosened the two mounting screws (no need to remove them), lift off the icemaker and unplug it. Reverse the order and done.

Removed shelf brackets to allow the removal of the evaporator sheetmetal cover. Unpluged wires to thermostat ,removed defrost timer and plugged in new timer,(front left lower kick panel). Cut and resoldered wires to new thermostat reinstalled thermostat and cover in reverse order. I knew what parts I needed and how to repair the unit,however your customer comments were spot on and would help anyone perform a successful repair (you provide a helpful service for the public)

I removed the two side mount screws with a screwdriver and disconnected the electrical plug to the ice maker to remove it. I reversed the process to install the new one.

It was the thermostat that was the problem, but I chose to replace the entire ice maker for only $25 more.

removed all items from frig.. removed shelves, loosened one screw on each slide bracket and moved them down and out of the way of the rear panel....removed 6 screws in rear panel...removed all ice on coils with a heat gun...located defrost stat, replaced...crimped wires...re-installed rear panel and shelves! On left side of frig. in front bottom..located defrost timer..removed trim piece, loosened 2 screws....removed and replaced defrost timer...plugged in the frig. and it started!!!!

Followed the online video from this site

Since I didn't have any water to both dispenser or cube maker, I assumed I needed the Double Solenoid Water Valve. I first ordered and installed the double valve, but it did not solve my water supply. I then ordered the Single Solenoid Water Valve and installed it per instructions. These valves are easy to install and do not take over 15 minutes. The water is now flowing to both dispenser and cube maker and everything is working like new. I probably would not have needed to buy the double solenoid valve, but since my refrig was about 20 years old, I left it installed.

Followed the instructions provided in your video, took less than 15 minutes and works like new. Thank you for the parts and the advice.

First I determined the icemaker was the problem when it was no longer calling for water. You can hear that "whistle" for 6-7 seconds when it calls for water. Anyway, replacement was a piece of cake, but did not entirely fix my problem. I also had to flush the lines to the soloniods that allow water to flow through the filter and into the water storage tank because it was cloggged with a little piece of plastic.

My fridge side had warmed up to 70 degrees but the freezer side was still cold. The coils inside had iced up. After thawing with a hair dryer, it froze back after another week. I removed the old defrost thermostat and wired the heater strip directly and turned on the defrost timer. It began melting the ice so that ruled out the heater strip being bad. I couldn't get a reading with my ohm meter on the defrost thermostat so I took a chance and bought the part. Installation was a breeze and it fixed the problem.

Top freezer took off the panel in freezer and melted the ice around coils and found the defrost thermostat and replaced with the new one. Just followed the instructions from your video on line. Freezer works just fine now. Refrigerator is 38 years old.

Pulled the front Pull-face up off the old drawer...pushed the Pull-face down onto the new drawer--looked it over carefully and snapped it into place. Wish everything in my house were this easy to fix.