GRT21PRCD4 Gibson Refrigerator - Instructions

I snapped one of the end caps in, put the rack rail into the cap, placed the other cap on the other end, and snapped that end in. Because I received the exact parts needed, the entire repair took about one minute.

Found the part on this site ordered and received part in 3 days. Took approx. 10 min to replace. Thanks for the quick service.

Put the end caps on the metal bar and put it on the freezer door and it snapped right in.

Very easy to do in less then 4 minutes to do both shelves.

Thank you very much.

A little research told me the hum plus no cooling was either the compressor or the relay. I ordered the new relay and put it in but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up having to buy a new fridge, but it was worth the $30 gamble to see if I could fix it on the cheap and it saved me the money a service call would've cost. Pretty easy installation, just in a tight space on my model.

I watch the how to repair video on line and the repair went very quick and easy.It was just like the video,no hidden suprises.

I used a flat head screwdriver to pry open the front of the socket as I pushed the socket toward the freezer side. I unplugged the two wires connected to the socket then re-connected the two wires to the new socket and popped the new socket back in. I then put a new light bulb in and we had light again in the fridge.

Use the rubber brushing to fill the gap.

unplug power from ref removed old light socket only difference wired a little different checked new socket compaired to old checked terminal ends small big looked at wires big,little plugged up put in new light blub plugged ref power back on work power off pushed socket bac in power on works

I unsnapped the old clips from the bar, installed one end cap to freezer door, clipped other end cap to bar, slid bar into end cap installed in door then snapped other end cap into place. Repeated for second shelf bar as those end caps were broken as well. No tools were needed.

They were the wrong parts. I read a question another person asked and it advised to order these parts. Didn't want to waste my time anymore and threw them away.

After realizing the engineering on this dryer was different, I was able to access the temperature control thermostat through the front, along the side of the heating element. Several philips screws hold the front on, removing them allows you to take front panel off. At that point the heating element is below. I took a picture of the wires, so that when I started removing them, it would be easy to reconnect. Two screws hold the heating element in place, upon removing the heating element housing pulls gently forward and out, be careful of the wires, the thermostat is the second thing connected to the housing of the heating element. Two more philips screws hold the housing to the bottom of the dryer. Two wires are removed from thermostat, which is also held in place by two philips screws. Remove wires, one at a time and place on thermostat exactly as they were on old thermostat. Hold new thermostat in place with the two Philip screws, and reassemble in reverse order. And enjoy your working dryer once more, hopefully for years to come.

Moved the old gasket aside to gain access to retaining screws in top freezer door. The new seal in the container we received was twisted, so laid it flat and used a hair dryer (as you advised) to regain the proper shape. Did everything possible, to align the gasket. Opened the freezer door to remove the retaining screws, began to reinstall the new gasket. The top came down both sides well. Attempted to install screws across the bottom, the gasket was so twisted would not conform back into the retaining frame on the bottom of the door. Therefore, it fits poorly. No proper seal. Sincerely, Jesse & Mary(also, the bottom of the freezer door plastic form was very brittle, broke where the screws fit....so we had to make a piece formed like a strip to re-enforce the areas that 'cracked' off so as the screws could align the bottom areas.

Problems. Two screws holding temperature control module to the plastic case did not fit the holes in temperature controler were too big. So I used gorilla glue to help secure but it was still loose a little bit with all the connections made i turned it on but it did not work

I had to loosen the screw holding the mounting block and increase the hole size to fit the screw on refrigerator

I simply removed 4 screws holding the casing and then 2 more holding the timer. It was very easy. I then replaced the timer by unplugging and plugged the new one in. I replaced all the screws and the job was done. Less than 30 minutes. I was very impressed with the shipping time. When I ordered the part, I had it the next day.