ZISB360DKB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Thomas from TYLER, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR62X10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Your video was wrong. Your step was to remove exterior frame on ice/water outlet. No need to remove.Wasted too much time trying to remove.
Remove control panel.
Remove four screw in control panel bracket.
Remove to bottom screws at bottom of solinid loose top screw.
Replace all screws.
Remove four screw in control panel bracket.
Remove to bottom screws at bottom of solinid loose top screw.
Replace all screws.
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- Customer:
- Roger from CAMARILLO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR17X22070
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Leaking around filter bypass plug
Took old one out with my fingers. Put new one in with my fingers.
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- Customer:
- Charles from El Dorado, AR
- Parts Used:
- WR60X10185
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Bottom of refrigerator wouldn't coool
I removed the top vent and unplugged the ice machine ,took the back cover off the freezer.Removed the old fan which was pretty easy(unplugged it after I took the housing out for easy access) I plugged the new fan in and put everything back in the order I took off, and yada yada yada we have cooling.
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- Customer:
- Richard from Fishers, IN
- Parts Used:
- WR62X10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Ice Maker Door fails to close
1. Remove outside panel (snaps off)
2. Remove Control panel 4 screws
3. Remove Solenoid by taking out 2 bottom screws
4. Remove solenoid weight from crank lever
5. Place new solenoid weight from crank lever
6. Insert weight in solenoid
7. Place back 2 bottom screws solenoid
8. Place back Control panel screws
9. Snap back into place outside panel
2. Remove Control panel 4 screws
3. Remove Solenoid by taking out 2 bottom screws
4. Remove solenoid weight from crank lever
5. Place new solenoid weight from crank lever
6. Insert weight in solenoid
7. Place back 2 bottom screws solenoid
8. Place back Control panel screws
9. Snap back into place outside panel
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- Customer:
- DALE from OLATHE, KS
- Parts Used:
- WR62X10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Ice machine trap door not opening or closing
Fairly simple fix. You must first uplug refrigerator, then take off the inside freeze door panel, approx. 25 screws. Then you must take out the trap door assembly approx. 6 six screws. Pop off the LED panel, requires the use of a flat blade screw driver to pop it off. Remove solenold by removing 3 screws, replace with new solenold.
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- Customer:
- Alex from Cary, NC
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11653
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Frost buildup in freezer by the ice maker
Replaced dispenser door flapper by following the do it yourself video in this site. It was really easy. Just be careful when removing the dispenser black bezel. I broke one of the little tabs when taking it off.
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- Customer:
- susan from hartford, WI
- Parts Used:
- MWFP
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Bad tasting ice cubes
Took the old filter out and put the new one in.
Easy Breezy!!
Easy Breezy!!
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- Customer:
- Dennis from Rogers, AR
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11653
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Watched video on flapper assembly replacement looked real ready. Video failed to mention ice dispenser trim was glued in place . Had to buy real small paint scrapper that would fit in dispenser outlet to free inside edge of trim piece. Once I got it all loose job went very easy.
Use small putty knife to cut internal sealant on ice maker door trim piece. Then you can easily remove it.
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- Customer:
- Brian from BOZEMAN, MT
- Parts Used:
- WR02X12008, WR02X10540
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Noisy Freezer Evaporator
Find a video on youtube. Remove 6 screws. Pull the Styrofoam part up before removing the panel. Unplug and Remove the fan assembly.
You will need a NUT DRIVER to take the bracket off the backing plate.
I ordered the red grommet and the red bumper. You need TWO of the red grommets if that is the problem. My freezer was about 8 years old, and the grommets were worn and compressed, the bumper was not. Replacing these parts DID NOT FIX the problem. I needed a new motor.
I probably disassembled and reassembled this stuff about 7 times before I got all the parts and tools. Each time I had to unload the freezer.
You will need a NUT DRIVER to take the bracket off the backing plate.
I ordered the red grommet and the red bumper. You need TWO of the red grommets if that is the problem. My freezer was about 8 years old, and the grommets were worn and compressed, the bumper was not. Replacing these parts DID NOT FIX the problem. I needed a new motor.
I probably disassembled and reassembled this stuff about 7 times before I got all the parts and tools. Each time I had to unload the freezer.
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- Customer:
- Mark from HAYMARKET, VA
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11653
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Flapper was worn and misshapen allowing warm air in freezer, ice cubes to melt and drip and impairing function of ice dispenser. Frost formed in ice dispensing chute also.
Followed the online video. Unplugged refrigerator, removed trim piece, lifted control board cover, removed 4 screws retaining circuit control board and removed the 3 connectors from the control board. Located flapper and removed by using small flat tip to take tension off flapper connectors. Helper held flash light to illuminate flapper connectors. Reversed procedure. New flapper seals well and cured problems. Circuit board was a bit different than one in video, but still had the 3 connectors. Marked each connector with grease pencil at top edge to ensure correct reconnection. Should note how wires are threaded around circuit board to ensure they are tucked back in correctly in reassembly. Remove trim piece carefully. I broke 2 of the 8 plastic pins that hold trim on. May be due to age of unit as they were brittle. 6 pins still hold trim piece flush.
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- Customer:
- Philip from S BURLINGTON, VT
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11653
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Remove front cover
Remove front cover did not remove wires remove ice and water unit took off flapper put new one on 5 minutes back together
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- Customer:
- ERIC from THE VILLAGES, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR62X10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Flapper Door stuck open
The only tricky part was removing the front panel. Releasing the latches required considerable force. The best tool I found was a "jack knife" type Allen wrench set, using the medium size wrench, which fit into the release hole and upward pressure did the trick. The rest of the job was very easy.
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- Customer:
- James from GREENSBORO, NC
- Parts Used:
- WR02X12008
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Fan was not centered in the middle of the back panel opening.
Bent the motor bracket down, then using a rat tail file, elongated the holes in the back panel of the refrigerator to secure the fan in the "centered" position. This was a problem that was with the refrig. since it was made. The parts involved were perfect. NO problem at all installing them.
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- Customer:
- Vonda from Hendersonville, TN
- Parts Used:
- WR62X10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The Ice dispenser tube in the door would accumulate ice
We followed the instructions we found on this site.
First we unplugged the refrigerator.
Then we removed the control panel that has the ice type selection on it by releasing the three spring latches. These are accessible from the bottom of the panel looking up toward the ice dispenser. There are three holes. Press a narrow screwdriver or punch in each of these holes and then pull out the control panel. (Be careful not to disconnect the wires, but observe how the wires are routed.)
Then we removed the ice tube cover that covers the solenoid assembly. There were four screws. One was very rusty and it required some WD40 to loosen it. Once the cover was removed the solenoid was visible on the right. (It has a floating component that attaches to the "arm" of the flap. This is how the solenoid opens and closes the flap. The flap needs to close properly so ice does not build up in the door.)
There were three screws that had to be removed to get the solenoid out. (The top one you may just need to loosen once the bottom two are removed.) When the solenoid was removed we also removed the old floating component from the flap are and replace it with the new one. We slid this into the solenoid hole and then screw it in with the three screws.
Before we attached everything, we plugged in the refrigerator to test the solenoid. We dispensed some ice and waited to hear the flap close. (The flap close is slightly delayed so be patient.)
We attached the cover that was over the solenoid being careful to route the wires as they were when we started. We test the solenoid again. Then we snapped the control panel back into place and tested again.
We found that having the right size screwdriver made a difference especially dealing with rusty screws. It was also handy to have a good flashlight. Having extra hands was helpful to hold the control panel and cover while working on the solenoid and routing the wires.
First we unplugged the refrigerator.
Then we removed the control panel that has the ice type selection on it by releasing the three spring latches. These are accessible from the bottom of the panel looking up toward the ice dispenser. There are three holes. Press a narrow screwdriver or punch in each of these holes and then pull out the control panel. (Be careful not to disconnect the wires, but observe how the wires are routed.)
Then we removed the ice tube cover that covers the solenoid assembly. There were four screws. One was very rusty and it required some WD40 to loosen it. Once the cover was removed the solenoid was visible on the right. (It has a floating component that attaches to the "arm" of the flap. This is how the solenoid opens and closes the flap. The flap needs to close properly so ice does not build up in the door.)
There were three screws that had to be removed to get the solenoid out. (The top one you may just need to loosen once the bottom two are removed.) When the solenoid was removed we also removed the old floating component from the flap are and replace it with the new one. We slid this into the solenoid hole and then screw it in with the three screws.
Before we attached everything, we plugged in the refrigerator to test the solenoid. We dispensed some ice and waited to hear the flap close. (The flap close is slightly delayed so be patient.)
We attached the cover that was over the solenoid being careful to route the wires as they were when we started. We test the solenoid again. Then we snapped the control panel back into place and tested again.
We found that having the right size screwdriver made a difference especially dealing with rusty screws. It was also handy to have a good flashlight. Having extra hands was helpful to hold the control panel and cover while working on the solenoid and routing the wires.
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- Customer:
- Everett from Wylie, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR60X10185
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
whining noise from freezer
had to remove ice maker and several panels to get to the fan. wires for fan encapsulated so had to cut old and new wires then solder them together while working inside the small freezer area. not too bad all in all took about an hour to get it done. no more wind thru the trees noise and is working fine
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