PDS20SFSLS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Located temperature sensor on condenser in the freezer section( as per instructional video ). Cut off bad sensor with wire cutter then soldered on the new sensor and sealed with electrical shrink wrap.

water runs in now but still does not make cubes. just keeps dripping until I shut the water off.

Unplugged unit and removed vented cover over compressor section. The run capacitor is a simple fix 1 Phillips head screw and 2 spade wire connectors. For the temperature sensor I had to remove all drawers and the ice maker to remove the back cover to expose the condenser. Put a bowl at the drain stem in the rear of the unit and used a heat gun to defrost the coils on the condenser. Cut the wire about 3" from the sensor end . cut about the same off the new sensor stripped the wires put shrink wrap on each wire, attached butt connecors . heat gun for the shrink wrap and reassembled everything. Simple job that took about a half hour to do both. I will monitor the fridge for a couple of weeks to see if I need to change the control board.

removed the back cover about 7 screws then removed the fan shroud the top part folds down and then slide to the right and angle down. remove to two screws holding the motor in spread apart the plastic housing to remove the wire connector. unclip connector .

followed part select video instructions

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

Detached the old part from the refrigerator and disconnected the low voltage quick connect. Also disconnected the water line to the Ice Maker. Reinstalled the new part in the order it was disconnected and re attached the water line feed to the valve threaded connection. Turned water on and no problems.

Your online instructions were easy to understand and follow. I replaced the outlet valve which took about 20 min. Then I had to dissasemble and remove icemaker to de-ice inlet tube and back wall of frezzer to defrost cooling fins. All to gether it took me about 1hr / 40 min. Frezzer now works just like new. Thanks for making it affordable and easy. Curt

I monitored the ice maker after it stopped working and noticed it was not filling with water. I loosened the water feed hose to the single valve outlet and the water feed was fine. However, the single valve outlet never activated to turn on the water feed. I disconnected the waterfeed and electrical connection from the single valve outlet and removed it. Replaced it with the new one, reconnected the water feed valve and electrical connection....allowed the ice maker to cycle and it started filling the ice maker with water right away. The unit is functioning fine now. Thanks to Select parts for filling my parts order fast and accurately. Regards.....E. Tew

Replaced all the sensors in both the feezer and refrigerator.Even though it colder now it still is not cold enough.Freezer won't freeze items but is cold and refrigerator still not real cold

Move unit out to access rear. Unplug unit. Shut off water supply. Remove lower cover with phillips screwdriver. Remove valve and both water lines. Install water lines back into new valve and install valve back into position. Turn on water supply and check for leaks. Install cover. Plug unit back into wall. Let icemaker produce some cubes to make sure everything is working correctly before pushing unit back into position. Very easy!

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.

I can't tell you how luck I feel after finding your website I ordered the temperature sensor after watching one of your videos on-line and the repair went just as on the video. I pulled the "bad" sensor out, and replaced it with the new one. Keep in mind that this is the first time I ever touch an appliance, needless to say I'm feeling pretty good about that! All in all it took me about 20 minutes to complete my repair and it now has been about 4 days and the refrigerator is working like new again!

Ordered the part from "parts select". Removed old part, installed new part by unscrewing the old switch, simply cutting supply hose ...pluging in the new part and re-attaching water supply line. 10 minutes at most.

per your instructions