PCF25PGWB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

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Watched an online video that I had seen before that helped immensely step by step, I fixed before and now just lowered freezer setting so ice bucket doesn’t get as full and freeze the deflector and jam deflector, causing it to break.

I am going to start by talking about the problems. I woke up one beautiful morning around 4 am and grabbed my breakfast and coffee. I was not happy and realized there was a problem when the milk was almost as warm as the coffee. I was confused because I could hear the compressor running and the freezer was cold. On line directed me the right direction but I did not want to believe it. I did eventually confirm the evaporator coils in the freezer were frozen over because the heater was evap coil defrost heater was burnt out (multi-meter). I never realized a refridgerator had a heater, weird. The water dispenser in the freezer door had been freezing up for the past year. I could never find a real problem or solution to fix it. I did not find anything relating the evaporator coils freezing over causing the water line to freeze but thinking about the problem it made sense. The freezer was much cooler than it needed to be to cool the fresh food side. The temp control ensures the freezer is at least a certain temp, it did not limit how cold it would get. The hardest part of the repair was waiting for the part. I installation and reassembly of the freezer was easy. I replaced the cooling fan because the old one looked a little chewed up on the sides. It was not recommended or required. After the repair I was able to feel good airflow in the upper freezer and in the fresh food compartment. I think the fix will effect the temperature, the water line and also should help me get more ice from the ice maker (the freezer ducting feeds cold air to the ice maker area). Good luck.

I made my wife fix it.

took off the front panel, removed the auger and front piece, removed the pin and spring and installed them on to the new piece and then put everything back together

removed ice bucket from frig. removed screws to dis assemble the box to get to the auger assembly,removed stripped nut replaced reassembled be care not to let the rest of the assembly fall from auger there are a lot of blades and spacers to try to get back to proper position.

After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wiggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.

I removed the cover on the back of the freezer side of refrigerator to expose the anti freeze element use the hair blow dryer to melt the ice on the coils put 2 towels to colect the water thats wath take me time, to replace the heath element was a 1 minute job.

Went on this site, found out many others like me had the flap door stuck open problem, it would not shut after you went for ice. I needed a new solenoid that opens when the ice is dispenced and closes afterwards not allowing the warm ambient air to come up the shoot which frosts the ice and melts it. It shipped QUICK and now I have a working ice maker dispenser from the outside. Its been 2 YEARS of opening the door and reaching into the ice maker bin for ice! Thanks PartSelect

with a small screwdriver push in tabs in upword movement to remove the face cover for the three botons of ice crushed ice and water .
once removed remove four screw to take out the circular door .
solinoid plunger will be atached to the door and it has to screws holding the solinoid .
instolation is the oposit steps of removing the part

I used a mirror to locate the two small plastic tabs located on the underside of the ice dispenser light. I used a small flat blade screwdirver to push the plastic tabs forward to release the ice/water selector unit. I read about someone that did not see the tabs and ended up removing the inside of the freezer door, a two hour task! The ice and water control unit then slides out. remove the four rusty screws holding the dispensert and ice chute, the selenoid isthen easy to see.
Just replace the solenoid if your are having problems, I tried to lube it but to now avail. There is some rust in there so good time to clean up and put new screws in. Be care when removing the plastic lock tab on the circut board it breaks easely. If it does no big deal just make sure the connection is pushed in all the way. test your handy work before buttoning up. The solenoid comes with a new plunger so don't worry about cleaning the old one. The screws do not come with.

First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.

The allan wrench pushes into the holes nder the front control plate and it pops off. Unplug the wires and set aside. Four screws removes the next piece and the "flaper" door is visable.

Replacing was easy. Cleaning took the longest. Order screws with parts, I could not find them at the hardware store. I suggest a coat of oil (3 in one) on the solenoid/piston surfaces. I probably did not have to replace them. The rust was inhibiting the piston movement. Some steel wool and oil would have probably fixed it. If the flap closing starts sounding softer, I'm going to take it apart and clean it first.

The only difficult part was not knowing which parts had to be removed to gain access to the flapper to replace it. It appeared as if the frame around the control panel would have to be removed as well as the door handle; we tried but were not able to remove the frame. It turned out that the panel just popped out with the frame in place. Once we had access to the flapper, it was easy to replace it. The repair fixed the problem.