Models > BCS42ELE

BCS42ELE General Electric Refrigerator

Jump to:

Find Part by Name

Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
This valve comes with 1/4" compression inlet. NOTE: This part comes with new quick connections. To install - cut retaining nuts off of existing plastic water lines and gently push them into new valv...
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 22
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. This part has been updated by the manufacturer and may appear different t...
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 22
This part comes with 3 round pin connection terminals. This fan motor circulates the air through the refrigerator grille and cools the compressor and condenser coils. It also helps to evaporate extra...
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 22
This evaporator fan motor operates in a counter clockwise fashion. This motor's shaft is 3/8 of an inch and the motor has two right side terminals. NOTE: Harness wires NO longer come with the part.
No Longer Available
Special Order
This refrigerator defrost timer will cycle for thirty minutes after every ten hours of run time.
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 22
No Longer Available
$39.09
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 22
This is an authentic OEM replacement part. This mounting grommet is commonly used in the assembly of refrigerators, washers, freezers, and dehumidifiers. Most often the mounting grommet is used to hel...
No Longer Available
The start relay briefly boosts the compressor, and then shuts off as soon as the motor gets up to speed.
No Longer Available
This defrost thermostat kit comes with the installation with wires, mounting brackets, and wire connectors. L45-20.
No Longer Available
$363.64
This part should be installed by an appliance repair person as it could be dangerous. This part may be used to help prevent your evaporator fan from becoming blocked with ice. This part also insulat...
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 22

Questions and Answers

Be the first to ask our experts a question about this part!

Common Problems and Symptoms for BCS42ELE

Viewing 13 of 13
Leaking
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Ice maker not making ice
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
Will Not Start
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Fridge too warm
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Not dispensing water
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
Freezer section too warm
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Noisy
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Fridge and Freezer are too warm
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
Clicking sound
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
Too warm
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
Ice maker won’t dispense ice
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
Fridge runs too long
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
Freezer not defrosting
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
anthony from thornton, CO
Parts Used:
WR57X10051
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Cracked housing on the vaave
1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines ar e still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
288 of 308 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Customer:
Kimberly from Grandy, NC
Parts Used:
WR60X187
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Panel hot to touch between freezer & refrigerator. Motor hot, fan not rotating.
Unplugged refrigerator, removed three screws to take out part, disconnected the wires and removed bad unit. Removed fan blade from old unit and attached to the new unit. Attached wires, placed the new motor back in. Plugged it back in, within 20 minutes panel between freezer and refrigerator was cool to touch.
32 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Customer:
Bob from Aurora, IL
Parts Used:
WR49X10021
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers
during defrost cycle water dripped into freezer and froze all over ice bin
First I removed the ice maker. Second I removed the back panel and overhead panel above ice maker. Third I pulled down the drip trough it had a styrofoam base under it. The trough heater had to be unplugged to remove the trough as well as the drain hose. Forth I seperated the styrofoam from the trough and peeled off the old heater whi ch had burn marks on the foil. Fifth I applied the new heater plugged it in and attached the drain hose to the trough. Last I reassembled the unit. Refridgerator works great now and it only cost $45.00 for the heater. The GE repair service quoted over $950.00 and did not list the trough heater as the problem so I would be spending more and would have required several repair visits.
27 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!