GSS23LGTB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove lower front panel, disconnect damaged union from water hose under freezer door, replace with new union, tighten and reattach front panel. No more water coming from under the unit. Ice maker and dispenser features returned to working order!

First I turned the refrigerator and water line off. Then moved to the freezer section, followed the directions, removed the two screws. Directions state to not remove them but I had to in this case. Unplugged the ice maker and removed it from the freezer. I installed the two mounting screws then tried to plug the electrical connection back in but had to use the adaptor cord furnished in the kit. The cord was a little long but I tucked it in and mounted the ice maker. Turned it on then turned the refrigerator and water back on and in a few hours had ice! Very easy to do!

Disconnected power. Removed evaporator cover in freezer. Removed the bad defrost heater. It is a glass tube about 10" long. The tube was black since the internal heater wire burned out. Use a hair dryer to melt ice in evaporator. Since there was excessive water coming from melt ice, I removed the back panel and took out the white plastic drain tube and collected water from the tube in a bucket. I put everything back and used the refrigerator for three days without problem, before the new heater arrived. Then I put on the new tube and everything was fine so far.

First turn off the power, remove the ice tray, remove the two screws holding the ice maker to the side of the freezer, use the screw driver to gently open the electrical clip for the power cord inside the freezer, remove the complete unit from freezer, bend the old stripper from the holding pin- it is flexible- it will bend, replace the new stripper on the holding pin and bend into the slot to hold it firmly, no water will come out from the fill cup into the freezer, plug in the power cord, mount back to side of freezer, you are done.

followed instructions already posted on your website, but had a very difficult time getting the dispensing side of the auger assembly to slide out, even after I disengaged the plastic tabs. There is no easy way or place to grab the assembly to pull it out. Finally turned the unit upside down and pounded on the edges of the assembly with a wood block and a small hammer. Once the part started coming out a couple of inches, I flipped over the ice bin and was able to pull it out the rest of the way, once I had something to grab on to. After the auger assembly was out the cup replacement was easy per posted instructions and the unit snapped back together easily.

I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.

removed 3 screws unplug and remove old unit. install two screws install new ice maker, tighten screws plug in and turn on. had ice in 20 min.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Unplugged frig. Emptied freezer shelves of food, removed ice container, removed all shelves, removed light bulb cover and light bulb, removed rear panel over coils (2 phillips on bottom and 2 1/4" hex on top/staggered. Used hair dryer hung on a wire to defrost the "ice block" over the coils. Used heavy towels to catch the water in the bottom so the condensate drain didn't just overflow. Removed the 2 screws holding the old element. Unplugged the quick disconnects. The new 2 element heater purchased at partselect is not "encapsulated" like a florescent tube as was the original. Much greater efficiency with exposed element coils. Re-routed blue wire on left of coil bank to the right-used the same split insulator that pink wire is in to keep it safe, did not need to use the jumper extention that comes with the kit. Plugged in both the blue and pink wire quick disconnects, installed the new defrost element with the 2 screws. Cut the old thermostat right up against it's sensor pot. Stripped existing wires, used my own wire nuts to mate the new thermostat, wrapped tight with electrical tape, then tucked them up underneath. Snapped the new sensor on the evaporator line at original location. Replaced panel, plugged frig back in, turned control in frig side to 1, and it works like new now. No more freezer burn. Ice cubes better. Still, this design is poor and no more ge major appliances for me.

Bing , Bang, Boom.

I popped the switch out using the blade of a small screwdriver and noticed that it connected with two wires via a slide on connector for each one. I noted the info on the old switch to identify which wire went to which terminal. I held each wire with a pair of pliers while I pulled the wire connector off the terminal on the old switch. I connected the two wires to the correct terminals on the new swith, and popped the switch back into the door frame. Easy, easy, easy and saved the $40 service call + parts cost!

Watched video, however could not get outer casing off. Under the panel are three small holes, pushed up with an Allen key, used a small screwdriver to wedge out, came out easily, followed instructions from video on removing and replacing solenoid

I first replaced in-line water filter to the fridge. No ice. Then I replaced the water filter inside the fridge. Still no ice. I inspected the water inlet feeding the ice cube trays and it was froze up with ice. I removed the two screws holding the ice maker in place to remove the ice from the inlet tray. I then used a hair dryer to melt the ice accumulated in the in-coming water tube. Turned off the water and unplugged the fridge. When replacing the old water valve, I first blew through the hose feeding the ice maker to be sure that it was clear of ice. After re-attaching the water hoses and the electrical connections, I turned on the water, plugged in the fridge and turned the ice maker switch back on. Next morning I had ice cubes. Only mystery is I am not hearing the usual water noise when water is feeding the cube tray like I did before, - not to worry though if it works. My drawer is now full of cubes.

Just had to pull ice maker drawer out and replace the drive cup which was very simple. Light bulb on door dispenser was kind of hard to get back in cause it is such a small space to screw the bulb in.

Ordered the new part (water valve). Took off the bad one followed directions on you video. The video explained the process making it easy to do.