PCF25MGWC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Followed instructions from an existing video on this site. This site is very helpful both with regard to diagnostics and then removal/installation of the failed part.

I had some trouble removing the broken switch because a lot of the frame was missing due to the damage from the dropped can. I tried a screwdriver first and then switched to a small putty knife, which someone else had suggested.
Once the switch was loose and wires were accessible, I also had some trouble disconnecting them but they finally turned loose. After that the new switch was easily connected and popped back into the opening.
Definitely take photos as you disconnect!

1. I unplugged the refrigerator/ freezer
2. Turned off water supply
3. Removed the screws that held the cardboard skirt in place
4. Unplugged the water tube from the push connect
5. Removed the screws around the water inlet to the ice maker
6. Remove the water fill tube
7. Install new water fill tube and put all the screws and plates back where they go

I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.

The defrost heater failed. The coils frosted completely over so no airflow to the fridge. Step 1. Empty the freezer. Ice maker and top shelf can stay. Remove power, pull plug or open breaker. Step 2. Remove shelves and bottom food drawer. Step 3. Remove bottom food drawer rails. 2 phillips screws on each side. Step 4. Remove back panel, 2 screws at the top. Work panel out. Note there may be a green ground wire hook on it at the top. This will expose the heater and the cooling coils. The heater is at the bottom of the cooling coils and is the width of the coils. Step 5. There will be 2 wires, one on each end, and two phillips screws holding it in. Wires pull straight out. Note which way the heater is installed and remove the 2 screws. Step 6. Assemble in reverse order. Be very careful with the heater. It is in a glass tube and is very easy to break.

Very easy novice could do

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Very easy! Remove the ice bucket and replace with new one.

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

Local repairman was called. He replaced the condenser fan motor as it had an intermittent noise several days before. Cost of the repair was 252.00. Two days later freezer was thawing again. He then came back again and said it was probably the evaporator fan and would replace it for 339. dollars or the mother board which he would replace for 500 dollars. He recommended replacing the unit. Since my unit was still in pristine looking condition I decided to do some further research. That is when I found your web site. After reviewing the possible causes on your site I ordered the defrost themostat and and all three thermistors.As a precaution I also ordered the evaporator fan and defrost heater and bracket Assembly. When the parts arrived I disconnected the power to the unit. Removed the shelves and lower pan. Removed the light shield and light bulb. Reovede the two screws holding the evaporator coil cover. This allowed access to the evaporator themostat. I then cut the wires from the old themostat and removed it from the coil. I then stripped the wires on the colored wires and also cut the wires on the new themostat and stripped those. Then using wire nuts I aatached the wires making sure they were properly color coded. Wrapped with electrical tape and attached the new thermostat to the evaporator coil. I then located the evaporator temperature sensor and removed it from the coil and removed the clip and placed it aside for use on the new sensor. I cut the wires and discarded old sensor. Stripped wires on the new sensor after determining the proper length and stripped the wires where the old one was removed and the using in line connectors I first crimped the wires on the new connector and the crimped both wires to the wires previously cut and stripped. Reinstalled the connector to the clip and clipped it back onto the evaporator coil. I then disconnected the wires attached to the defrost heater bracket assembly, located the two screws holding it to unit and removed it from the unit. I did a continuity check on it and it checked ok but was black so I replaced it as a precaution since I already had a new one. Hung the new unit onto the mounting bracket reinstalled the two mounting screws and reattached the two wires. Reinstalled the evaporator cover making sure to reattach the ground wire clip. Reinstalled screws and light cover and all shelves and pan. Reconneceted electrical power. Unit operated fine for a couple of days and then thawed again. I then retraced the steps removing what I had to remove to replace the evaporator fan motor and replaced it per the installation instructions on your site. The unit has now been operating for five days maintaining -8 degrees in the freezer and 37degrees in the refrigerator. I probably could have done a little more trouble shooting at the main board but didn't want to risk damaging that since I already had the parts I thought would fix the problem if it wasn't the main board. I only replaced the one temperature sensor so I will probably return the two I did not use. Thanks for your excellent "how to"videos.

remove the front plate. use screwdriver to pry the cover off from the bottom of the cover, remove the wiring from the front cover.remove the 4 screws and pull out the shute. remove three screws from the solonide and replace . very easy fix. save yourself $100.00 labor.

There are three holes under the front panel in which you push a very small screwdriver in and the front panel comes off.In back of the panel is another panel with 4 screws .1 at each corner.Remove the 4 screws and that will come off exposing the working parts that need to be replaced.This is also a good time to clean anything you can get to in that area.It is very important to remember how everything came out.

Called the repair guy, he came and said the heater was ok and changed the thermastat.Well that didnt work and the heater looked real bad.So i got one and changed it. Well that worked for two weeks, next i got the motherboard. I looked into it and they have alot of problems with them.And My water and ice machine quitto, so i got one an put t in. So far its not freezing, its been two weeks. But my water and ice machine still wont lite up or work.I was told not to buy Ge buy a service guy before we got it. But the wife went with her cousin and when they got back that is what she got.

I pulled the bulb out to see if it was the bulb, no! I took the switch out, of course with the refer unplugged, and jummped out the wires and the light came on. Ordered my switch and put it in in 10 seconds and then there was light! Thanks again for showing me the light!

Tim in NJ

took out heating element while ice was still on coils..replaced w/new one, thought it would go on to defrost right away ,but freezer had to run it's cycle . Then after about 4 hours all ice was gone and all went ok..back to normal and it is now set on #4 working fine .