TFF19LBC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I learned from previous descriptions. Most important is there are two cams so order two. Second is that the door can be blocked from the bottom so the door doesn't have to be unloaded if you are careful. Remove the vent cover. Raise the door as high as possible while closed then block it from dropping down. I used wooden blocks. Remove the lower hinge and bracket on the bottom of the door. Put everythng back and you're back in business. A kit with both cams, spacers, and screws with diagram would have been nice to have.

took a little more effort than the video show to remove old module and replace new. Works fine now.

Watched the video very good. Thank You

It was way to ez to install only a couple of minutes that's it

Removed the broken fan blade (just pulled off) and replaced with part purchased PartSelect. Very easy repair, no tools required.

Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.

I used a block of wood to hold up the door. Then unbolted the lower hinge from the fridge. That is when I found out that it was fine and it was the upper half of the hinge that was broken (worn).
So I unbolted the upper hinge (mounted on the bottom of door) It uses the same part. So I installed the part on the upper half of the hinge.

I wish somebody would have told me that you need 2 of these for each hinge. The bottom one was in good shape, lucky for me.

There was what seemed to be a half chewed up washer under the refig. door. The door wasn't closing all the way. DING!! Something was wrong!!

I looked up your schematic for the refrig door and decided what piece might have broken. It was a good guess and the part showed up a few days later.

I wedged up the refrig door to take the tension off the lower bracket. Then, just took off the bracket and replaced the broken door closing cam.

Thanks to the stories on PartSelect my wife and I knew what to expect. The biggest hassle was sawing off the rivet that's on the hinge on the refrigerator (my wife volunteered for that job). When we got everything back together the door worked a lot better, but still wouldn't close without a little push. In frustration and running out of time, we put the stuff back inside the refrigerator door and that did the trick! The weight was enough to allow the door to close on its own.

Followed previous poster's steps. Replacement of door closing cams took 35 minutes. Make sure you buy 2 cams for each door.

I popped the rivet of the new hinge I received, removed the plastic bushing and installed it on my old hinge - this was the part that went bad on my old hinge. I re-installed my old hinge with the new bushing, problem solved

I first removed all of the door contents. I then removed the door from its mountings by removing two screws at the bottom bracket. With the door lying on the floor I then removed the two screws holding the door cam assembly in place. I inserted the new door cam, then reversed the process replacing the four screws.

removed the door, installed the cam riser, and reattached the door. It took longer to remove the contents in the door than it did to install the cam riser.

Replaced the old cams with new ones, door works perfect now.

Removed refrigerator door and replaced bottom door pivot with the included mating cam and the door closing cam on the bottom of the door.

I didn't know that there were two mating cams and only ordered the door closing cam which I read online was the problem. It was the number one part on the part select list. The number two part was a kit including the door closing cam and the pivot with mating cam attached. It would have been helpful if there had been some notes that said check condition of both cams before ordering the part. So I have a spare door closing cam and paid an extra $19 including $8 shipping which negated a return.

The repair is easy - getting the right parts the first time is the trick.