TBX25RPELWH General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Put bracket on workbench and hit two or three times with hammer. Glad I did not remove water inlet retainer from part, it can very easily be mistaken for a thread protector.

Frig parts had been scavenged in an apartment complex. Restoring socket was only a matter of plugging in two spade contacts and clipping in socket.

part arrived on schedule,

First i shut the water valve off going to the fridge, I then removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then i took the water line loose to the element, reverse the prosses and put all back on new element and installed,

Removed broken part (actually it fell out)

Inserted new part. Nothing to it.

All I had to do was raise feeding screw and attach new drive cup, the lower all back into ice tray

Just as your video described, although due to the age of the fridge, it took a bit longer to remove the defective switch. Your video made this so simple, I can't imagine why we lived with a dark fridge for so long! I was ready to buy a whole new fridge, as repairmen are often nonexistent for small repairs. I am the biggest fan of your company & it's repair video. THANK YOU SO MUCH

Unhooked power to valve
Removed old valve by taking out 2 screws.
Used adjustable wrench to remove water lines. Then reversed and hooked everything back up

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

I started at the compressor and replaced the overload and the Ptcr first and that did not make the compressor start running again, so I replaced the capasitor and it still did not start, so I bit the bulett and replaced the Main Control Board and that is what I should have checked first, when I removed the old one I found a little burnt spot on the back that I could not see from the front. The new one did not look exactly like the old one, it had two more wire terminals than the old one, but just leave them blank and everything will work just fine!

Common sense will take you thru the process of removing, then just reverse the process to replace the auger.

water runs in now but still does not make cubes. just keeps dripping until I shut the water off.

Solenoid pushing the crushed ice flapper was burned out. Solenoid was easy to find unplug and replace. I used the old piston which simplified things. Now works great

Detached the old part from the refrigerator and disconnected the low voltage quick connect. Also disconnected the water line to the Ice Maker. Reinstalled the new part in the order it was disconnected and re attached the water line feed to the valve threaded connection. Turned water on and no problems.

I removed the front of the unit assembly and removed the entire auger unit and drive assembly. I married the old drive cup and new drive cup back to back using vise grip pliers, drilled 4 3mm holes, installed 4 phillips head stainless steel screws and, using an emory wheel, ground off the exposed screw ends. I then re-installed the drive assembly and auger unit. This increased the length of the drive cup allowing the drive to fit without any slippage. The entire cost was less than $18.00 including shipping and screws and took about 1 hour. It works great.

Your online instructions were easy to understand and follow. I replaced the outlet valve which took about 20 min. Then I had to dissasemble and remove icemaker to de-ice inlet tube and back wall of frezzer to defrost cooling fins. All to gether it took me about 1hr / 40 min. Frezzer now works just like new. Thanks for making it affordable and easy. Curt