TBX18SHC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

easy replacement however, front rubber seal was glued onto old shelf and not removeable in one piece. Would suggest when ordering this part, include the rubber seals - front & back if maintaining crisper seal is desired.

Removed the broken fan blade (just pulled off) and replaced with part purchased PartSelect. Very easy repair, no tools required.

It was way to ez to install only a couple of minutes that's it

I ordered four leveling jacks from this site for the refrigerator using a slightly different model number (my model was not listed). I assumed that the jacks all had the same shaft diameter and thread size. However, it turned out that the two front jacks had half-inch shaft diameters. It could be that originally there were rollers in front. The two rear jacks had quarter-inch shafts with "feet" for supporting them on the floor. So, I had to return the four jacks I had ordered and find another solution. I found two half-inch threaded bolts at the local hardware store that fit the front holes perfectly. I purchased 3.5 inch bolts to give me enough room to find the proper adjustment. I used wooden blocks and a crow bar to raise one side of the refrigerator high enough to screw in the leveling jacks. I used an adjustable crescent wrench to turn the bolts' hex heads until they were the proper height. I used the two original quarter-inch jacks in the rear holes and adjusted them to the proper height to level the refrigerator on the concrete floor where it is located. Then I removed the wooden blocks and tested to make sure the refrigerator did not wobble. I found that using the two bolts (no leveling jacks for the front holes could be found) for the front jacks proved to be the ideal solution. The job took me about thirty minutes, including the time it took to move the refrigerator into its final location and adjust the leveling jacks once more to create a solid stance so that the refrigerator did not wobble. While I had the refrigerator away from the wall, I removed the rear panel and cleaned the blades of the cooler fan and removed dust and dirt build up near the compressor with a vacuum cleaner. Then, I screwed the panel back into position, moved the refrigerator into its final place in a corner of the garage and made sure there was enough air space around it to allow for proper air circulation. This took me about twenty more minutes. I plugged it back in and listened to it come alive again. It is old but has never needed a repair and keeps everything cooled or frozen. I would suggest using threaded hex-head bolts in place of original leveling jacks if they cannot be obtained. Problem solved.

took a little more effort than the video show to remove old module and replace new. Works fine now.

Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.

Just as your video described, although due to the age of the fridge, it took a bit longer to remove the defective switch. Your video made this so simple, I can't imagine why we lived with a dark fridge for so long! I was ready to buy a whole new fridge, as repairmen are often nonexistent for small repairs. I am the biggest fan of your company & it's repair video. THANK YOU SO MUCH

Could not have been easier. Trick was finding the part for a refrigerator this old, probably more than 20 years.
1. Removed crisper bin. Removed broken cover.
2. New cover dropped right into place. Replaced bin. Everything fit.

Used a flat screw driver to push in the small metal piece holding the end cap in place(this was to detach the old broken end cap). Then snapped on the new end cap.

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

Had to e-mail GE for electrical schematic. Checked voltages to compressor. Jumpered compressor to see if it would even come on. Found bad run capacitor. Fixed.

I started at the compressor and replaced the overload and the Ptcr first and that did not make the compressor start running again, so I replaced the capasitor and it still did not start, so I bit the bulett and replaced the Main Control Board and that is what I should have checked first, when I removed the old one I found a little burnt spot on the back that I could not see from the front. The new one did not look exactly like the old one, it had two more wire terminals than the old one, but just leave them blank and everything will work just fine!

Emptied freezes, turned off power, took floor of freezer out [4 screws ], took two screws out of fan mounts and replaces fan. Reassembled by reverse process. Simple

I removed the back of the refrigerator access panel disconnecte the 3 bolst holding the motor to the fan shroud assembly and removed the burned wires from the recepticle end at the wring harness. The fan motor comes with wire nuts but I chose to use the same style of connector as came with the OEM motor. I purchased the new connectors from NAPA and they are an exact fit. The new motor fit perfectly and has run flawlessly since the installation. It is in an awkward location and that takes time to get yourself into position but once there the assembly is very simple and it is rewarding to be able to use the appliance again. The ordering from the website and phone order are very easy to do and you have what you need in a timely and expeditious manner.

Fairly easy I pull the fridge foward and remove the backing board and notice the fan wasn't working, so I remove the fan and bench tested and it was burned then I clean the condenser with compress air if you don't have air then a vacuum cleaner works then once the part arrived I install it the now if working very good