GTS22UBPARBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplug the refrigerator. Pull all shelves out of the freezer. Remove light bulb shield and light bulb. Remove the two hex head screws on either side of the light bulb. Wiggle out the back wall. It is a tight sqeeze, but can be done. Locate the sensor on the top of the coils. It is held on by a simple clip. Wiggle the sensor and twist a little to take it off. Take wire cutters and cut the two wires into the sensor near the sensor to allow lots of room to splice in the new sensor. Strip about a quarter inch of wires left in the freezer. Use some sort of wire connectors, like twist caps, which will allow you to connect the two wires to the new sensor. Make sure to match the colors. I used shrink tube and line connectors. Once you have the new wires spliced together and protected with either shrink tube or electrical tape, tuck the excess wire out of the way and attach the new sensor. This is easily done by slight pressure on the sensor with the tube in between the clip and sensor. Make sure the wires are tuck out of the way and reassemble the freezer panel, light bulb, and shelves in the reverse order.

I followed the instructional video. It was right on the money for accuracy in terms of part location and method of replacement.

I took the ice maker out then the panels that closes in the evaporator coil. Disconnected the defrost censer and tested it with an ice bath. The censer did not close the circuit. So it's bad. I got the parts .(Very fast I might add. The PartSelect team did a great job of getting it to me). I the stripped the wires and spliced the like colors back together and tested the censer again with an ice bath. It closed this time. I started the frig and have not heard anything from the client. In this case "No news is good news". Thanks PartSelect

Refrigerator was showing actual temperature of 80 deg, freezer was about 3 deg high. (house temp was 65 at the time) Defrost heater seemed like the only component able to heat that much, so the defrost thermostat seemed like the likely culprit. I followed the installation directions in the video, and the fridge has been fine ever since.

I ordered the part but my husband had to work out of town for a week. The fridge kept getting warmer, so when the part came I just watched the video on the internet, (bit the bullet) and did the repair just as I saw it done on the video. It was simple and exactly the same as the video. It took a little longer for me because there was a lot of ice built up on the coils, so I used my hair dryer to melt the ice. My refridgerator is working great now.

All the rest of everyone's post are all what I did. The only other thing I recommend is to put the back panel over the evaporator coils when your done. I replaced defrost thermostat, and heater. Once I initially completed it it kept icing over more than usual. You have to put the back panel back on so airflow goes over the coils.

My Ge top freezer fefrigerator was going into defrost mode and the heater was staying on for too long causing the food to thaw and eventually refreeze. Originally thought it was the mother board but after researching and do some troubleshooting of my own I realized the defrost terminating thermostat was bad. $8 part from Parts Select. Accessed the evaporator by removing back wall plate. Located thermostat and cut two lead wires to it. Spliced in new thermostat and reattached to eveaporator. Refrigerator seems to be good as new. There is an installation video on the web page that shows you step by step proceedure.

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

I removed the bins, center slide arm and frame cover. I installed the new parts and it works fine.

Once the part was received, it was very easy to snap the new part into place, and reinstall the drawers. No tools were required to complete the repair.

easy pry out, disconnect wiring, connect on new switch and press in switch.

It was very tricky getting the old piece out, even though it was partially broken... I ended up snapping the old piece to remove it. Trying to install the new track with the glass shelf above was not working at all, but once I removed the glass shelf above it, the new piece went in pretty easily. With the glass shelf out, I could angle the track upward to get it into position. In retrospect, I should have removed the glass shelf from the start... it would have made removal of the old piece much easier.

removed the inside fridge electrical panel and swapped switches

Removed shelves and light bulb. Undid the two screws on the back panel with nut driver. Snipped the two wire leads to the defrost thermostat. ( orange and pink wires) Carefully removed the defrost thermostat from the coil. Stripped both ends of the wire leads about a half inch and onnected with two wire nuts. Then wrapped with electrical tape to seal from moisture. Carefully attached defrost thermostat to coil. Screwed the back panel back on. Reinstalled light bulb and shelves. And plugged refrigerator back in. Works like a charm. Saved close to 100.00 dollars doing repair myself.

Defrost cycle staying on too long causing ice to melt, refreeze and seizing up ice maker. Replaced temp sensor and defrost thermostat just to be sure. Fixed the problem.