GFD28GSLBSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove the screws from the two door pivot covers. Remove the covers and set aside. Remove the screws from the control board; disconnect the electrical connections; remove the door light switch, install door light switch then reinstall everything.

Turn off the electrical breaker for the refrigerator. On my unit the ice-maker was inside the left door. On the inside of that door is a plastic door where the ice bin is located. Open both doors and remove the ice bin. Behind the ice bin is the ice-maker. Beneath the ice-maker is a screw holding a plastic cover. Remove the screw and unhook the electrical connections. Next remove the screw for the ice-maker. Remove the ice-maker. Replacement is the exact opposite of removal. Couldn't be easier. Always be careful when putting the screws back. They were two different lengths and head sizes. Turn backward at first to line up the threads. If you strip out the plastic, game over. Good luck

1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

The replacement part comes as an egg-shaped assembly with a receptacle for the socket. I cut the power to the fridge, although that was probably not necessary. The old assembly could be pried out with a fingernail, and the socket can be removed by pressing a small tab. The socket then slides right into the new assembly, which can then be pressed into place before turning the power back on. All refrigerator lights are then at full strength.

Pulled out bottom crisper drawers. Removed drawer slides. Removed side plastic panels, then removed back panel which exposed the fan. Removed fan and replaced with new fan. Had to use the heat gun because there was ice buildup on left corner of rear panel. Reassembled in reverse order. There is several excellent videos on You Tube.

I ordered the correct part, the box said it was the correct part and when I opened the box a completely different part was inside. Not only was it the wrong part but it was loosely wrapped with very thin plastic and the hinge was broken off of the lid and laying in the box. I have called and emailed for help and was told no one was available to help because of COVID 19. One email was answered to return the part I would have to pay shipping and the part could not be damaged. Okay, the part was wrong, the part was broken. Now what should I do? Please respond.

I followed the directions included with the water filter and it was simple. The only problem I had was not being strong enough to easily remove the old filter. I did accomplish that after a few tries and the rest is history.

follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new

Purchased parts per your diagram and went to a appliance store to see how it was assemble

my freezer quit freezing, it would freeze for one day, thaw the next, so I went online, found PARTS SELECT, LOOKED UP MY MODEL #, come to find out it needed three parts to keep my freezer to freeze, first part was a thermistor a small PART took me longer to remove all the covers, and shelving, PULLED THE OLD OUT, CUT THE WIERS TO SIZE, AND REINSTALLED, IT WELL! THAT WASN'T ENOUGH THE FREEZER STILL DIDN'T FREEZE IT THOUT IT WAS A COOL WORMING OVEN, HAD TO INSTALL THE THERMISTOR I, SO I DID, TEN MIN, NOW I THOUGHT THAT WAS IT BECAUSE IT STAYED FROZEN FOR A WEAK, HAVE YOU EVER EATEN SOUPY ICE CREAM? SO BACK TO PARTS SELECT, THIS TIME I BOUGHT ONE MORE PT, THE RUN CAPACITOR, FIVE MIN, THAT/S ALL IT TOOK TO INSTALL. I DID NOT KNOW AT THE TIME YOU NEED THE THREE OF THEM TO RUN THE FREEZER ONE TO KEEP THE TEMP., ONE TO KEEP THE FAN RUNNING THE WAY IT SHOULD, AND THE THIRD TO MAKE SURE THE OTHER TWO KEEP RUNNING. NOW I CAN SET IT AT 4- 5 AND. FREEZE.

Watched a you tube video, followed instructions, took less than 20 minutes to remove and install new ice maker. After I installed, ice maker didn’t work. Went back on you tube and learned I had to turn “on” the ice maker via the panel on the front of the refrigerator door. It’s been working great!

The overload protector was the problem. It plugs into the side of the compressor and the run capacitor plugs into it.

If you pull the overload protector and it rattles when you shake it, that's probably your diagnosis.

The replacement is different from the original and the wire connectors are different. Hold the thing in the same orientation as if it were plugged in. The vertical connector goes to the neutral wire, which on my fridge is orange. The horizontal connector is for the overload, which for mine is black and white. If you have a schematic you should verify the wires yourself.

Anyway, the refrigerator now works like new.

It snapped in place.