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DFE28JELBDS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

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All Instructions for the DFE28JELBDS
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Customer:
Wayne from Rancho Cordova, CA
Parts Used:
WR55X10025
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Refrigerator freezing.
Temp. Sensor was under an egg shaped cover on the left side wall in the refrigerator. Remove the cover, cut the two wires to the old sensor and remove it. Connect the new sensor to the two wires using butt connectors. Replace cover and done.
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Customer:
Jim from Las Vegas, NV
Parts Used:
WR71X11052
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
broken plastic door 2 gallon shelf
Our old fridge. broke down. It took 2 months to finally settle with warranty people. 2 months with out main fridge. We bought this one and found a broken shelf. Not wanting to go through warranty people again, I went to partselect and got the right parts right away! Happy camper!
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Customer:
Richard from Nesquehoning, PA
Parts Used:
WR55X10025
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Fridge wouldn't keep temp
My son replaced both temperature sensors and the fridge works great now!!! Like brand new again!!!!
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Customer:
philip from cocoa, FL
Parts Used:
WR55X10025
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
freezer would not defrost
There were only 3parts listed to check omed out the defrost heater and thermostat ....thermistor checked bad ordered replacement took less than 2 minutes to replace after I defrosted it again runs fine
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Customer:
Jeffrey from Saint Charles, IL
Parts Used:
WR55X10025
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers
refrige ws too cold
as per video
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Customer:
Gordon from Sugar Grove, IL
Parts Used:
WR55X10025
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
defrost problem (refrigerator/freezer not cooling)
After replacing the Defrost Thermostat, Defrost Heater Assembly, and the Main Board, I concluded that the problem must be the Defrost Thermistor, which I replaced in less than 10 minutes and it fixed the problem! I cut the wires on the old thermistor and connected the new one after stripping the wires and taped the new connections with electrical wire. Fast and easy repair (the last part anyway ;).
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Customer:
Nick from Burnt Cabins, PA
Parts Used:
WR55X10025
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
Fridge/Freezer getting too warm
What an awesome site! After putting in my model number and finding the problem I was having, I simply picked the 2 parts that were most likely to solve the problem. I bought a defrost thermostat, and defrost heater. To a high certainty, they would solve my problem. They didn't however! I ended up having to buy a temperature sensor on another order a few weeks later when the problem resurfaced! My own fault. I should have bought it the first time. As others have written: the longest part of the job is defrosting the ice from the coil. One thing I did that I didn't see suggested: plug the drain hole below the coil. I put a couple towels in the bottom of the freezer and ran the hair dryer. Didn't take long. I read that the amount of water created will overflow the pan under the refrigerator, so I plugged the drain hole. Once you clean that mess up, the repair is pretty straight forward. Great site. Even through I had to make two separate purchases, I still saved a lot of money. Thanks!
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Customer:
Bill from Warrenton, VA
Parts Used:
WR55X10025
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers
Refridgerator not cooling, freezer frosting over
First, I had to remove the freezer drawer front. This is 8 large phillips head screws. then remove the plastic cover over the drawer slides. to do this, remove the white center screw from the slide near where it attaches to the drawer front. then the plastic cover will slide off pushing to the rear of the slide. take off the slides from the freezer walls by removing the phillips screws and pulling them towards you. They have tabs/slots in the rear. remove the center tray support and support bars, too. the icemaker has to come out, that is just 2 phillips screws but you also have to disconnect the electrical connector. just squeeze the locking wings and rock/pull. a screw in the top center of the back panel comes out. Lift and pull the back panel out. The evaporator coil appears. The thermocouple is attached to the coil in the upper right. Cut that one's wires and take it out. Just cut back about an inch from the back of the thermocouple, there is not much slack. Seperate and strip the wires back about 3/8 inch. Do the same for the new thermocouple. I twisted the wires together and used a solder sleeve to join the wires. The sleeve is just a little plastic tube that has a ring of solder in it that melts with heat gun heat. You can join the wires using butt connectors or whatever method appeals to you. I just wound the extra wire and put a cable tie around it, there is plenty of hiding space in that area. Make sure the new thermocouple is contacting the coil firmly.At this point, for a test, I left everything apart, propped the drawer against the opening and plugged the fridge in. Note that the evaporator fan will not start spinning immediately! It will just sit there making little bumps like it wants to go. The temp in the coil has to get settled before the electronics in the refridge will tell the fan to spin. It takes maybe 20 minutes. Reassemble. Fridge and freezer work great. It does take several hours for all to get cold again.
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All Instructions for the DFE28JELBDS
76 - 90 of 91