DFE28JBLCTS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

Turn off the electrical breaker for the refrigerator. On my unit the ice-maker was inside the left door. On the inside of that door is a plastic door where the ice bin is located. Open both doors and remove the ice bin. Behind the ice bin is the ice-maker. Beneath the ice-maker is a screw holding a plastic cover. Remove the screw and unhook the electrical connections. Next remove the screw for the ice-maker. Remove the ice-maker. Replacement is the exact opposite of removal. Couldn't be easier. Always be careful when putting the screws back. They were two different lengths and head sizes. Turn backward at first to line up the threads. If you strip out the plastic, game over. Good luck

1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.

Purchased parts per your diagram and went to a appliance store to see how it was assemble

follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new

I determined one of the five LED lights in the refrigerator was dead by swapping it with a working one. The refrigerator lights are wired in series and if one of the lights is dead the remaining ones turn on, but very dim. I called PartSelect.com and thanks to their help we determined the correct part to order which is the oval-shaped cover LED assembly which includes the cover, LED, and female connector. The part from PartSelect arrived in three days. The oval-shape LED plastic Cover assembly is mounted on the refrigerator and held by a couple of side latches. First unplug the refrigerator and then proceed to lightly pry the oval-shaped cover side facing the rear of the refrigerator with your finger nail to remove it. With the LED cover removed you can then press on the LED connector tab to slide it off. Now slide the female connector of the replacement part to the refrigerator male connector and snap the oval-shape plastic cover onto the refrigerator receptacle and then plug it back to its outlet. Now all the lights in the refrigerator should light up brightly! That's all folks. Hope this helps. Good luck. Yours truly.

my freezer quit freezing, it would freeze for one day, thaw the next, so I went online, found PARTS SELECT, LOOKED UP MY MODEL #, come to find out it needed three parts to keep my freezer to freeze, first part was a thermistor a small PART took me longer to remove all the covers, and shelving, PULLED THE OLD OUT, CUT THE WIERS TO SIZE, AND REINSTALLED, IT WELL! THAT WASN'T ENOUGH THE FREEZER STILL DIDN'T FREEZE IT THOUT IT WAS A COOL WORMING OVEN, HAD TO INSTALL THE THERMISTOR I, SO I DID, TEN MIN, NOW I THOUGHT THAT WAS IT BECAUSE IT STAYED FROZEN FOR A WEAK, HAVE YOU EVER EATEN SOUPY ICE CREAM? SO BACK TO PARTS SELECT, THIS TIME I BOUGHT ONE MORE PT, THE RUN CAPACITOR, FIVE MIN, THAT/S ALL IT TOOK TO INSTALL. I DID NOT KNOW AT THE TIME YOU NEED THE THREE OF THEM TO RUN THE FREEZER ONE TO KEEP THE TEMP., ONE TO KEEP THE FAN RUNNING THE WAY IT SHOULD, AND THE THIRD TO MAKE SURE THE OTHER TWO KEEP RUNNING. NOW I CAN SET IT AT 4- 5 AND. FREEZE.

Watched a you tube video, followed instructions, took less than 20 minutes to remove and install new ice maker. After I installed, ice maker didn’t work. Went back on you tube and learned I had to turn “on” the ice maker via the panel on the front of the refrigerator door. It’s been working great!

I didn’t open the part till I verified it was the same. Then I detached the assembly from the fridge and swapped the water lines individually. The metal bracket had gotten bent a little in shipment, but straightened easily and all went back together.

I ended up ordering two valves, both of which were defective (bad) and would not pass water, for a total of $116.66. Then I had to get a service tech to install yet another valve (also a GE part) that was good and that fixed the problem (for another $187.00 charge). These parts seem to come from Canada or beyond so be careful if you order them as they too may be bad. I finally received a refund for one but I'm still hunting for a USA address to return the other one I need a refund for...good luck.

It snapped in place.

Installing the part repaired the fridge and freezer immediately.

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.