TFXC24FLP General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I supported door with 2* 6 scrap wood. I used cedar shingles to raise door to correct height.
Using a socket wrench, I removed the hinge from the fridge and the cam assembly from the door.
I installed the new hinge and cam using the shims thatwere behind the original parts.
I removed the 2*6 supports and the door now works perfectly.

Shut off water and disconnected at factory joint at bottom hinge. Unplugged the electrical at the top hinge. Removed the door and installed new bottom hinge and cam assembly. Reinstalled the door and hooked water and electric back up. Part worked fine.

Was able to pull the door up to the normal position, then blocked in place with 2 2x4's. Easily removed the hinge assemble and the door closing cam, which had broken in two.
bolted on the replacement parts in 10 mionutes and the door was a good as new: peice of cake!!!

First I turned off the water supply. Then I removed the ice bin and the ice maker by removing 4 screws and 3 electrical connections. This allowed access to the evaporator fan which was not moving. To remove the evap fan I removed two screws that hold the fan bracket. The fan assembly now had to be pushed back and rotated to remove from hole. There are 3 electrical connections that have to be disconnected from the fan, one ground wire that also is connected to the fan bracket and 2 power connections. Installing the new fan was the reverse of the above except the power connections were in a different location and i had to use the extension wires provided with the new fan to have the length needed to make the connection.

removed old parts and installed new. went smooth

This repair replaced two riser cams - one attached to the bottom fridge hinge and one attached to the bottom of the door. The two cams
mate together. So, don't just buy one cam, buy two.
1. Removed all contents off the inside of the door as well as the bins.
2. Unscrewed single screw holding plastic cover over top hinge.
3. Unscrewed 2 screws holding top hinge to the top of the door and removed the top hinge.
4. Pulled door up and off bottom hinge and layed
on floor.
5. Removed plastic grill on bottom of fridge.
6. Removed 2 screws holding bottom hinge in place.
7. Using a vice to hold the hinge, I used a hacksw to cut through the rivet holding the riser cam to the hinge plate.
8. Used a small bolt & nut to secure the new riser cam to the hinge plate.
9. Reattached hinge plate to the bottom of the fridge.
10. On bottom of the door remove two screws holding riser cam to door.
11. Position new riser cam in place and reattach to bottom of door.
NOTE: on my door, the metal SHIM that goes between the cam riser & door was also broken. I ordered the replacement SHIM but it turned out to be made of PAPER. So, I didn't bother putting it on. If the riser cam wears out again, I'll just replace it again.
12. Put door back on and secure the top hinge to the top of the fridge and you're done.

Frist, cleaned coils; still no start. Noticed the cooling fan near compressor started then immediately stopped. Removed relay and "guardette" assembly from compressor. Checked for shorts on compressor between relay probes and compressor housing and found no shorts. Also saw heat damage on relay so decided to replace relay, overload (relay/guradette assembly no longer available) and start/run capacitor. The original GE parts were no longer available so I found replacement parts listed by GE. They were: Start Capacitor: WR62X58 replaced by WR62X51, Relay/Guardette assembly WR7X191 replaced by Relay WR07X10011 (2-wire relay) and Overload WR8X170 (1-wire overload). The original Relay/Guardette assembly had 4 wires, 2 to the relay and 2 to the Guardette. The wires to the Guardette are ground wires that also ground the cooling fan. I had to rewire the new Overload to allow the 2 grounds to be attached to the single pole of the new Overload. After replacing all parts, the compressor still would not work...heard loud clicking noise when new parts tried to start the compressor. In the end, compressor was bad so refrigerator, which was 29 years old, was replaced.

Turn of power to fridge. Removed all shelving in freezer section. Unscrewed back panel from freezer area. Removed old defrost term t-stat from top of evaporator coil assembly. Cut existing two wire leads, spliced in new T stat wires. sealed wire splices from water egress and clipped new t-stat in same position as old one. Reassembled rear panel, installed shelves. Turned power back on.That's it.

Removed old hinge assembly, bolted on new assembly-door shut like new

I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.

Disassembled front door/cover (3 screws), then removed deflection door assy, (4 1/4" nuts), CArefully and methodically removed C Clip and grinder teeth...Be careful with this step to document/remeber how to re-assemble! Auger repleced then reverse steps...
All in all, not too bad, but you can easily screw up the teeth re-assembly.

Since the cam riser was obviously broken I obtained a replacement.
It also broke. The door hinge cam needed to be replaced also.
To repair Remove the hinge cover using a #2 phillips driver. Than remove the Hinge using an 8mm socket. Turn the door upside down and, using an 8mm socket remoge the cam riser and the door hinge cam.
Replace in reverse order.
Be sure to inspect all parts and order all required.

Remove three screws insert part; manually checked out drive and waited for ice to buildup and it worked like new.

Turned off The water supply. Removed the back panel corner(nut driver). Removed valve (nut driver) and water supply inlet line. Cut the old outlet lines at the valve (new lines are push in) disconnected electrical lines, Reinstalled inlet line and electrical lines. Reinstalled valve and back panel. Turned on the water. Ice maker filled with water and a short time later I had ice. Easy job.

Found broken pieces of deflector in delivered ice. Removed dispenser, carefully disassembled it, marking fasteners, sprimgs, and levers. Local repaimen say no replacement part available, must replace entire ice maker @ $350. Found exact part in your online reference, ordered at price of $3.76, part arrived two days later--perfect fit, exactly same as original. Reassembled, and it works exactly like new. Family very happy. Good job!!!!!