PTC22LFDARWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I had made a dry run at the repair after watching the instructional film provided by part select and it seemed easy enough.
The only problem was that i needed to use the electrical cord extender (provided) to adapt to my plug type. That presented a problm because it needed to be tucked up out of the way to allow the ice bin to clear. Just needed to be creative in how you wrapped the cord behind the ice maker unit before snugging the attachment screws.
Cranking out ice like crazy.

took the old off and replaced with new one very simple . new snapped into place

1. You should probably unplug refrigerator before starting.
2. Pull down on the two plastic chrome plated selector buttons to remove them.
3. Pry off the plastic cover plate that has water, crushed & cubes printed on it.
4. Remove the four screws at each corner. This will release the control module housing. Pull out the housing while making note of how the water supply line is positioned underneath-could take a digital picture for later reference)
5. Unplug the plugs at each end of the board.
6. Remove the two screws at each end of the black bracket that retains the control module.
7. Pull out the old control module.
8. Insert the new control module.
9. Replace the retaining bracket removed in step 6.
10. Plug in the the two plugs removed in step 5.
11. Carefully reseat the control module housing back on the refrigerator (make sure that the water supply line is positioned correctly)
12. Replace the the 4 screws removed in step 4.
13. Line up the posts on the the cover panel with the holes on the control module housing and press back into place.
14. Replace the two chrome plated plastic selector buttons.
15. Plug in the refrigerator & test.

Grill for the water dispenser in the door. All I had to do was drop the new one in place.

Received the new grill in one day after ordering.

I had to order bucket as well. Then I removed 3 screws from bottom of bucket and removed auger parts as a unit put new drive cup in new bucket and re attached auger parts as assyembly and reinstalled in freezer.

First I removed the electrical plug from the back of the freezer that plugs into the icemaker. I then removed the two hex head screws that hold the icemaker to the wall of the freezer and removed the icemaker. I removed the plastic cover, which incidentally protects the gears, by prying it off with a srewdriver. I removed three small nuts(7mm) which holds the internal cam in place. I removed the cam by pulling it off the shaft. Once I got the part from you folks I reversed the procedure that I just mentioned, and put the icemaker back together. It works great. The part with shipping was around $16.00. A new icemaker was roughly $159.00. If I would have called a technician it would have cost around $300.00 to repair.

Repair was quick. Unplug refridgerator first. Pop off faceplate, pull down on slider knobs to remove them, remove 4 screws holding unit in and pull it out enough to see the two screws holding the control board bracket (black on our unit). You can see them from the top looking down. Remove the two screws, lift out bracket, pull out the old control board, insert the new one, and replace things in reverse order.

Removed six screws. Two hold the base plate, Two hold the back panel plate and two hold the plug. After removing The panel plate asm, the solenoid is located right behind the back panel on the right side. Found solenoid asm bracket broken. Replaced with new solenoid & arm asm. P/N-PS304989 Item Nbr-378 on the parts diagram. The ice maker now dispenses cubed ice. The replacement fixed the problem.

The only difficult part was not knowing which parts had to be removed to gain access to the flapper to replace it. It appeared as if the frame around the control panel would have to be removed as well as the door handle; we tried but were not able to remove the frame. It turned out that the panel just popped out with the frame in place. Once we had access to the flapper, it was easy to replace it. The repair fixed the problem.

Let me start by saying, I usually hire something like this out but figured I would give it a try. The install was fairly straight forward, however it would’ve been nice if the instructions would have been more useful. Instructing me to remove one screw to release the auger and solenoid enclosure wouldve been nice. There were 3 other screws that I didn’t need to remove and they were the ones holding the auger in place, which made assembling that much more difficult. Once to enclosure was removed, and the solenoid was exposed, it was a seemless process. I would however, recommend paying attention to or taking a picture of the connections on the solenoid. I was lucky to remember or got lucky. Regardless, I was able to complete the project successfully. If I had to do it again, I believe it can be done in 30 minutes or less.

Remove front cover did not remove wires remove ice and water unit took off flapper put new one on 5 minutes back together

Researched on internet/you tube; ordered part, and did the repair. Easy to do and saved the cost of a service call.

removed the bulb from the package unscrewed the old bulb & screwed in the new bulb.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

I discovered that the ice gate on the ice dispencer stayed open all the time. I looked at your online blue prints and found the Ice gate solenoid and found that ours was bad and not working. I ordered the part and in a couple days was able to replace the old one with the new one. The refrigerator stopped running all the time and this will in the long run save on our power bill. This is the greatest way to save on repair cost because this repair would have cost $100.00 for a repair man to do the same work. Money that I would rather spend on something fun. So thanks PartSelect.com. You made it easy to repair my refrigerator.
Ken Willis