PSE26KGECEWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First, I removed the top drawer blocking the area where I needed to put the glass panel cover. Then, I removed the drawer along with the glass panel holder to which I needed to install the glass. I installed the glass to the panel holder without difficulties (although the glass cover was expensive :() and reinstall the drawers back to their proper place. This repair was actually a no-brainer.

Removed panel from front of freezer door by pushing up on three spring loaded screws located in the opening where the ice door opens and closes. they are about 1 inch apart on the bottom of the opening. Push up to free ice maker panel. Remove three screws from solenoid, located at the top right. Remove wire, replace with new and that is it. Fixed the problem!! Our ice maker hadn't worked for months. Be careful if you remove the round ice maker door to clean. There is a spring that located on the left side of sprocket. The spring fell off and took me a while to figure where it came from. Recieved package in three days and the job took minutes. Works great! Very easy to complete.

1. Removed all food, shelves, and ice bin from freezer compartment.
2. Removed freezer light hood and unscrewed freezer bulb.
3. Removed rear evaporator cover panel (2 Phillip’s screws, 2 hex screws).
4. Melted ice on coils with hair blow dryer (needed bath towels to collected water).
5. Removed old defrost heater (2 Phillips screws, 2 plug-ins).
6. New heater connected without any adjustments.
7. Replaced evaporator cover ice bin, shelves and food.

removed 3 screws with 1/4 " nut driver, unplugged 2 plugs by prying out on side tabs, removed bracket and motor. Used vice grips to hold motor shaft and used screwdriver to turn auger fork clockwise and remove. Unplugged two connectors from motor. removed 3 screws with 1/4" nut driver to remove motor. changed rubber boot from old motor to new. Reversed procedures to install new motor on bracket, auger fork, bracket in freezer, etc. Only difficulty getting both hands in narrow freezer compartment. Still didn't work, called repairman. When he got here I showed him the problem and lo and behold, now it would not dispense water. He diagnosed it as a bad motherboard, replaced it and all good now. Motherboard $150, diagnose and labor $90, but it is all good now and I even have a spare motor. The failing mother board causes strange howling noises at times and we discovered the compressor fan had also stopped working and in a short while I would have had a bad problem. Caught it just in time!!!

The repaire guy came in tooke it out and told me it is goin to coast $20 for the part and $50 for the labor..... So I looked, It was soooo eeezzz ALL you have to do is get the switch out( with help of my butter knife :) it plugs in to a little outlet on the wire (on the botom side) so take out the old one and plug in the new one wich I got for $8 + $6 shipping = $15 THANK YOU PART SELECT for saving me $55 Im a 36 y/o stayathome mom and Ihave never don this before, Im very proud of my self. well... it was very easy!

After removing three screws on the ice bucket, it basicly came apart by itself. I needed to use pliers to remove the old nut because it had over tightened itself onto the shaft. Be careful here - it is a left hand nut - not a normal right hand nut! Reassembly was a snap putting the parts back together in reverse order. Unit has been working great since the repair.

By reading another customers tip I decided that my problem was the exact same. I had to order the entire motor not just the auger because the motor shaft was stripped. Once you remove the motor, hold the shaft with a pair of vise grips and use a screw driver to turn the auger off clockwise. The threads are reversed. The new auger screws easily onto the new motor counterclockwise and installing back into the fridge was a snap.

took back panel off in freezer.unpluged unit then cut wire to sensor tie in new one wire nut them up and taped.on the heater strip took off two screws and unpluged two wires put the new in same way as taking old one off.I am pleased that the parts from part select came as fast as they did I would for sure buy from them again and prices were very fair.Thank you very much for your service.

Level of difficulty, as far a mechanical skill goes is relatively easy; however, everything in the interior of the freezer (including icemaker) must be removed to get to the defrost thermostat. The defrost heater only needs the racks and back panel removed. It probably took about 45 minutes with a heat gun to melt the ice off of the coils so that I could work on it-need lots of towels/rags to pick up the water.

Replaced both temp sensors worked good for 2 days then began freezing food. Looked into it further on line. Found small motorized door broken that controls the cold air from the freezer

This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!

After watching a coupe videos on replacing the augher I decided to replace the bucket and auger, as it came all assembled ready to slide in Piece of cake. It was so easy to find the part needed. Enter the model number and presto the parts break down is on you computer, the delivery took 2 days.

After placing the order I noticed that it was going to the wrong shipping address. A quick phone call problem corrected.

the replacement part did not have the 3 screw holes needed to 100% replace the part that broke. however, i realized that the piece that fastens to these 3 screws is the slider cover piece (i dont know its name) that has the rubber gasket was sticking every time i opened the drawer and this was what caused the OEM part to break. anyone who has a GE profile with the meat compartment must know what i am talking about - it sticks and is a bit clunky to open (until the pressure breaks the pin holding the gasket as in my case).
i simply did not place that piece back when i put the replacement part in, and now it slides much more easily. the downside is slightly less seal for the meat compartment, but to me that isnt very important because that compartment does not need to be isolated from the rest of the fridge to do its job.

First, I turned off the water supply line to the refrigerator from the house at the wall and unplugged the power cord. Secondly, I removed the small screws that hold the piece of cardboard over the opening in the lower left corner (rear of the refrigerator) by the compressor. Thirdlyl, I removed the other end of the water line where it attaches to the water valve with an adjustable end wrench. Then I removed the small screw that holds the double water outlet valves to the refrigerator frame. I then removed the water valve by pulling it out of the rear of the refrigerator, unplugged the electrical connections, and cut the water lines where they enter the valves. I then plugged the electrical connectors into the new valves and pushed the hoses into their respective openings. These are one-way connectors - once you push them in (firmly) they will not leak or come back out. All I did then was replace the valve and secure it with the one little screw and then replace the cardboard piece onto the rear of the refrigerator. Don't forget to turn the water supply back on. That's it!!

There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.