DSRF5KGXCEWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I pulled-out & unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the screws to gain access through the lower back panel. The water valve is on the left side as I face the back of the fridge. It has one screw holding it to the frame of the fridge. Once it is free, the main water hose is unscrewed and the two out-let lines were pulled-out. If your valve was not ruined prior to this, it is ruined now, as the lines will not re-seat. Then everything is done in reverse order. I did cut 1/2 inch off of the two lines so that they reseat into the new valve. Just push into the valve and they are good.

You must have a nutdriver to replace this part. No wrench or pliers will fit in the space to loosen any of the nuts.

You cannot simply replace the bracket, because it's connected to the ice-maker assembly and it's a very snug fit. Therefore, you must remove the bracket on the opposite wall to give you room to angle the assembly and slip on the new bracket.

Be careful when you're screwing the nuts back in, especially the two in the back of the freezer. It's a difficult angle to keep a grip, and it's easy to drop the screws into the freezer (and then you have to fish them out of the bags of frozen peas)

1 - Remove the nuts from the broken bracket.

2 - Remove the nuts from the bracket on the opposite wall.

Now you have room to maneuver.

3 - Angle the ice-maker assembly and slip off the old bracket, and then slip on the new bracket.

4 - Align the brackets over the holes and screw in each nut.

The most difficult part was screwing in the two back screws when replacing the brackets onto the freezer walls. It's a pretty simple job that requires no muscle.

replaced with new connector and it worked great. also replaced the water filter and that was super easy!

I turned water off at valve and unplugged refrigerator. I removed screws to remove cardboard cover at bottom. I removed screw holding duel inlet water valve bracket and pulled out valve. Then it's just a matter of exchanging electrical connections and water lines. The electrical connections unplug and plug in-red to red and blue to blue. The water lines are two different sizes so they can't be mixed up. Then reattach bracket and cardboard cover. Turn water back on and plug back in.

Background: My refrigerator was part of the class action law suit back in 2006. As a result both doors, the auger in the ice maker and a heating element in the freezer were all replaced.

Problem this time: Water was not dispensing.

Solution: Replaced the double outlet water valve in the back lower left portion of the refergerator. Water was coming into it from the water filter hose, but not coming out of it when the water dispenser in the front was engaged.

Further, I found that the coils in the back of the freezer were iced up and I therefore defrosted them with a heater. Thus, the original problem encountered with the law suit, did not get fixed by simply replacing the doors. That problem is still there. I think the defroster/heating element in the freezer is again not working.

However, I do now have water flowing again and the installation was, as others have described, very easy. Thanks for the online help.

Everything looked to be working but the compressor. As a pro checked every thing came down to a relay on the main board.

Just removed cover from back top left. marked and removed all wires. removed old board and installed new board very easy. Must read paper sent with it,
you may need to cut wires on some models.

Moved refrigerator out from wall, unplugged from electric, removed plate at bottom back with 1/4 nut driver, turned incoming water valve off, disconnected water line from water valve on refrigerator, removed mounting screw, remove water lines from valve and electrical plugs, set old valve aside and replace with new valve, reconnecting water lines and electrical plugs then remount bracket, reconnect water line from source, open water valve and check for leaks, replugged refrigerator and depressed the door button to check to see if working. It worked and there was not any leaks. Replaced back plate and placed refrigerator against wall. Job completed.

Our daughter spilled juice on the refrigerator light button. It started with the light coming on very slowly and then not at all. We popped off the old button with a flat head screwdriver, plugged in the new one. Works perfect. Can't believe how inexpensive and easy the fix was.

Turn off the water.
Unplug the refrigerator
Take the back off of the refrigerator
use socket wrenchs to undo and take off the water valve in the lower left corner of refrigerator.
Pull out and disconnect electrical connections
Pull out the 2 water tubes one for ice and 1 for water-white is water and black is ice.
install the new valve and connect the water and ice back in the new unit
connect the two power cords and reattach unit to the frame Turn water on and check for leaks.
If no leaks put back on refrigerator and plug in.
Wait 30 min to an hour for water to begin to flow back into the unit.

first i removed the three screws that covered the circuit board that was bad. then i removed the 6 connectors that went from the refrigerator to the board then popped out the old board , popped in the new board reconnected the circuit connectors covered everything back up and my refrigerator is back on line. this all took about 10 to 15 minutes time ... thank you for your product it really did the job..

i had to improvise And relocate ground wire to get a proper ground .. That's all , the video was a GREAT HELP...

Watched YouTube video

The water dispenser was not working, but when I pressed the lever I could hear it attempt to disperse water. But when looking inside I could see that when I pressed the lever it was spewing water from the tank. I was not certain why it was not dispersing water, but I knew I had to replace the leaking tank. I found several YouTube videos that described in detail how to replace the tank (and I highly recommend doing that). The removal and replacement was very straight-forward and that part took only about 30 minutes. But the time-consuming part was cleaning behind the refrigerator and cleaning the inside as well (since I already had most of the shelves out). Then once I got it all back together I tested the water dispenser and still nothing. So I disconnected the line coming out of the tank going up into the door and then tried again. This time water was coming out of the line. So at that point I was fairly confident that the problem was a frozen line somewhere in the door. After leaving it unplugged for a while and also heating the door with a hair dryer, I connected the line again and got water dispensed.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

After shutting off the h2o, I unplugged the refrigerator. Using the nut driver, I removed the cardboard backing. Then I removed the fitting where the inlet line to the ice maker and pried the old tubing from the unit. I then undid the clasp about 1/2 way up the back and removed the section that went through the back to the ice maker.
I then reassembled everything and plugged in the refrigerator as well as turning on the water.
Keep in mind that because h2o and electricity are involved. MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO h2o LEAKS.