ZISP480DXDSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

just watch video simple

Bent the motor bracket down, then using a rat tail file, elongated the holes in the back panel of the refrigerator to secure the fan in the "centered" position. This was a problem that was with the refrig. since it was made. The parts involved were perfect. NO problem at all installing them.

I followed the instructions on a posted desctiption. It workded perfectly. Replacing the inner door panel was not as difficult as described. Just start the process with the screws in the middle of the door. Those two screw holes were not slots. All of the remaining screw holes had slots. I installed all of the door screws before tightening any. I workded right the first time.

I started out replacing a bad thermostat, no problem,
when I hooked up the water, I found that the water resovior had a leak.
I replaced the resovior, easy fix, but I had to buy two 5/16 brass couplers.
then I found that the box would not get below 10 degrees, and the suction pressure was very low.
I figured that the fan motor was burned out, so I opened up the access covers, the fan motor was hanging there with broken mounts, so I replaced the motor, and repaired the mount.
Everything works great now, The parts shiping was very fast, I was impressed.
I thought I was going to get away without fixing everyones
HVAC problems when I retired.
Friends and family still remember that you are the HVAC man.
Tom

I followed your video and completely dismantled the refrigerator evaporator motor, fan, brackets, and grommet, I completely cleaned the refrigerator including the cooling coils. I then ordered the evaporator motor ,fan, grommets, lid bumper, and brackets. The order would take a week to arrive. In the meantime I cleaned and reassembled all the old parts, waiting for the new ones to come. Guess what! The refrigerator was quiet as a mouse. I really did not need the new parts, but I kept them anyway just for good luck. Not bad for a refrigerator that's twenty four years old.

I have not yet done the repair. After watching this repair video two problems came to mind. First I only ordered one grommet not knowing that there were two (or more I don't yet know). The second problem is that this video must be for a fridge from like the 1940, but it looks NOTHING like mine from 2008. The manual shows a bazillion parts and frankly I'm just a wee bit afraid to get started, and I am generally very handy, buuuttttttttt I don't know about this one

I removed the door cover plate and disconnected the circuit board, then four screws. The part was corroded in place. Upon removing three screws and cleaning the surface, the new part was an exact fit, replaced it and everything works like new.

Replaced rusted solenoid.

Popped front button panel off from the bottom using flat head screwdriver; Removed 4 screws holding electronics board and disconnected wires. Unscrewed 3 phillips head screws on old solenoid and replaced with new part. Reconnected wires to board, screwed back in, and pushed panel back into to place.

Thumbs up to PartSelect - fast, straightforward service and fast delivery.

I only had to remove the old filter and install the new one - all by hand. I then ran about 1 to 1and1/2 gallons of water through the filter to clear it.
A WORD OF CAUTION - HOLD YOUR GLASS CLOSE TO THE WATER DISPENSER FOR THE INITIAL FILLING - IT WILL SPIT UNTIL THE AIR IS PURGED FROM THE SYSTEM!!!
An extremely easy repair.

I followed they instructions from the other "do it your selfers" but only replaced the solenoid. This was the cause. Rust was keeping solenoid plunger from moving and this held the flapper door open. Very easy to repair!

repair was easy, just removed control panel and removed screws from solenoid, switched out with new, was done in minutes

put the gratefruit knife behind the old switch pooped it out pluged the new one in piece of cake 5min.even vacumed the dust off the coil

- With a plastic thin putty knife remove the trim panel around the water dispenser. There are plastic clips along each side that just need to be slid inward slightly to release the trim. The thin plastic putty knife worked great for this.
- Remove the electronic panel by pushing the top of the panel down slightly to pull out at the top. The bottom will then come out easily. Remove all electrical connections so the board can be detached completely.
- Unscrew the four screws at the corner of the Dispenser Housing Shield. Before removing, note the position of the wire runs for re-installation.
- Take some pictures of how the old Ice Funnel is attached then remove it and reinstall the new Funnel.
- Make sure wires are in their proper place before screwing the Dispenser Housing Shield back in place with the four screws.
- Connect wires to back of electrical panel and angle the panel into the proper place at the bottom and then pull down slightly to go in the top.
- Reattach the trim by gently pressing the plastic tabs into each slot.

Find a video on youtube. Remove 6 screws. Pull the Styrofoam part up before removing the panel. Unplug and Remove the fan assembly.
You will need a NUT DRIVER to take the bracket off the backing plate.
I ordered the red grommet and the red bumper. You need TWO of the red grommets if that is the problem. My freezer was about 8 years old, and the grommets were worn and compressed, the bumper was not. Replacing these parts DID NOT FIX the problem. I needed a new motor.
I probably disassembled and reassembled this stuff about 7 times before I got all the parts and tools. Each time I had to unload the freezer.

Removed face plate, which holds the circuit board. Removed the next section be removing the 4 screws that hold it in place. Then removed the old solenoid, and replaced it with the new one.