TBX22P1YARBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First I removed the electrical plug from the back of the freezer that plugs into the icemaker. I then removed the two hex head screws that hold the icemaker to the wall of the freezer and removed the icemaker. I removed the plastic cover, which incidentally protects the gears, by prying it off with a srewdriver. I removed three small nuts(7mm) which holds the internal cam in place. I removed the cam by pulling it off the shaft. Once I got the part from you folks I reversed the procedure that I just mentioned, and put the icemaker back together. It works great. The part with shipping was around $16.00. A new icemaker was roughly $159.00. If I would have called a technician it would have cost around $300.00 to repair.

Tried replacing water valve since no water in ice cube tray. Exact part not available due to age of refrigerator, but I got the equivalent replacement part for $18. Mounting holes different, but I made it work. Also one connect on new one slip connect whereas both compression fittings on old valve. I put it back together and icemaker now works great.

I loosened the compression nut on the valve with my fingers and pulled the water line free from the valve. On the other end, I just pulled it from the hose clamp. Installation in reverse. Force the water line into the fitting on top, Slide the old nut over the line on the bottom. Screw the nut onto the valve. Reach inside the freezer and turn on the ice maker. Done. Before replacing the cardboard grill, you should vacuum the coils on the bottom, front and back. If practical, push it outside and blow it out with an air compressor or a leaf blower.

My husband took out the old icemaker in about 5 minutes. The new icemaker was a perfect fit even though the refrigerator was >10yrs old. The only difficult part was the plug extension that was needed so that it would fit into an older appliance. The part was included, it just made the cord about 3 inches longer than it needed to. After working with it for about 20 minutes we were able to fit it on the back side of the icemaker. Now it works great!!

slid it on the end of the shelf and put shelf back on door

Repair was super simple. Everything was a direct fit. Hardest part was unloading freezer to access evap motor. My freezer was old making my wire shields very brittle so I cut the shielding and used heat shrink tubing for a neat clean repair.

Removed icemaker from freezer,
Removed 3 screws from cover plate, and removed screw securing main gear, removed gear.
Pulled back cover plate to expose switches and mechanism.
Removed screw holding switch to remove switch, and installed new switch.
I should have taken a pic of the cover plate, the interior mechanism and the wiring as I went along. It would have saved me 45 minutes in reassembly. Also, as luck would have it, I reversed the wiring on the switch. So off was on, and I had to remove it, switch wires and re-install.
But it works!

Removed old valve easily. New WR57XI0033 valve is designed to mount on lower left, but on mine it has to mount on lower right. Had to drill two 1/32 holes in lower rail to mount the new valve.

I watched videos of the modern refrigerators and figured out how to do my model by taking my time watching as many videos that pertain to my refrigerator I finally I expose the evaporator I noticed that the defrost heater was buckled up and totally disintegrated and slowly took my time looking at the screws I took it out and I didn't have to do
disassemble bottom of the freezer to replace the part, you definitely had to have common sense and to be mechanically inclined to do this repair otherwise it was easy

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Remove the one screw holding the unit in place, unplug it, slide in the replacement, plug and screw it in.

ATTACH ENDS TO CENTER BAR. HOOK INTO SLOTS IN REFRIGERATOR DOOR.

with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP

Pop out switch, pull wires, attach wires to new switch and pop back in. Easy smeasy!

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.