GDR20DSEARBS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.

I unplugged the refrigerator. Pressed the tab near the light bulb. Unplugged the socket and reconnected it.

put the gratefruit knife behind the old switch pooped it out pluged the new one in piece of cake 5min.even vacumed the dust off the coil

Un Plugged the frig. Unlocked the socket by pressing down on the latch. Pulled the socket out ensuring I had enough slack. Unplugged the old socket installed the new. Plugged the frig back in. Tested the switch . Very easy-to-use.

It was way to ez to install only a couple of minutes that's it

took a little more effort than the video show to remove old module and replace new. Works fine now.

On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.

Easy

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.

pluged the wire harness into the new socket from the back and snaped the socket in place.

Frig parts had been scavenged in an apartment complex. Restoring socket was only a matter of plugging in two spade contacts and clipping in socket.

Just as your video described, although due to the age of the fridge, it took a bit longer to remove the defective switch. Your video made this so simple, I can't imagine why we lived with a dark fridge for so long! I was ready to buy a whole new fridge, as repairmen are often nonexistent for small repairs. I am the biggest fan of your company & it's repair video. THANK YOU SO MUCH

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.