GBE18BAPBLBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I slipped the coupling over the bar and then into a door slot. It was very easy.

Removal old fashioned oven door handle took time after removing the oven door. New replacement handle was easy to install! Try to reinstall was long and finally got installed after 5 attempts due hinge on right side issue

On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.

This shelf has been broken for about a year now and my husband tried several little quick fixes that would work for a while and then the shelf would fall again. A quick search online led me to your website, the part arrive within two days, and the shelf was fixed in less than ten minutes. It's working great. We'll definitely keep you in mind for the future.

I pulled off the broken piece, ordered the new piece, and snapped it on. VERY SIMPLE.

Removed the shelf retainer and snapped the new one in. and reinstalled the shelf on the door.
This was a very simple problem!
What really impressed me was that I ordered the part from you before noon on one day and received it by 11 AM the next day!!!

First, I removed the broken end cap from refrigerator door. Then I snapped the new end cap into place. Repair took less than 5 minutes and required NO TOOLS! Easy!! Got my part in one day, Thanks.

I matched the part I needed throught your web site. Then I called and spoke to a customer support person, and gave my personal information to her. I do not like giving my credit card numbers over the internet. Your site allows me to do that.

Watched a youtube on capacitors- though on a motor with a pulley, the symptoms were the same, motor running and pulley not turning-bad capacitor. Took a chance for a 17+ dollar part vs a new compressor. It worked.

Barry G was right on with instructions and expectations of the process to trouble shoot parts and how to replace. Barry also provide the right part numbers for replacement items. Thanks again Barry.

Condenser fan motor was running slow. This was not a problem included in your list of possible problems. I thought that maybe the capacitor was bad but have no way to check it. So I ordered one. when I received it, I installed it. That was not the problem. So I ordered a fan motor and installed it. That was not the problem. So finally I ordered a control board and installed it. That solved the problem. So maybe you should put "cond.fan motor runs slow" in your list of possible faults and what causes that problem. Capacitor was easy to install, simply remove the cover plate, flip off retaining wire, unplug the capacitor and replace. Fan motor was a bit more difficult. It must be removed from mount after fan scroll is removed. Remove one screw that holds scroll, bend the top down and remove. Then pull hard on fan blade to remove it. It must be installed on new motor. Two screws in frame mount can be removed with some effort if you have a 1/4" drive ratchet with a Phillips screwdriver bit. Then pull frame open and install new motor. Push fan blade on new motor shaft hard. Replacing control board was easy. I used a pair of long nose pliers with 90 degree bend to get mounting pins closed to pull board off.

Had to get behind the refrigerator and clean the drain out first and that took at least and hour. Just unplug the old motor. Took the old parts of the old motor, put them on the new one and plugged it back in.

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.

Looking at the schematic I found in the back of the unit, it appeared that there were not many parts associated with the problem. I removed the Overload/PTC and run Capacitor as a single unit. Although the capacitor was listed as the most likely problem part I decided to order both items since small particles of non-ferous material were falling out of the Overload/PTS plastic case. I installed both parts as a unit and plugged the refrigerator in. The compressor did not come on so I figured that there were other problems. After about 15 minutes I returned to the unit and found it running. It is now quieter than it has ever been. I now feel that the defective part was the Overload/PTC unit and not the capacitor.

Removed rer cover, unplugged starter assembly from side of compressor and replaced unit with a new one. Plugged fridge in and it works good.