ZISB360DKB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The ice shute frosted up after the selonoid rusted. 1: Small flat screwdrvier to pop off control panel
2: phillips screwdriver to remove 4 screws to control backing plate.
3: Phillips screwdirver to remove seloniod and flap door.
4: replace selonoid, flap door, spring and crank door. Consider replacing screws due to rust.

I would replace all these parts at one time to save on shipping as any of them could cause the frosting. THe shipping is more than most parts! VERY EASY and QUICK!

Totally followed the instructions of the video that came with the sensor. Unplugged the the fridge, defrosted the freezer. Cut off the main sensor that usually is the one that goes out. Installed the the new sensor with new wire terminals, crimped them and covered with electrical tape. Fridge works like a charm. Partsselect is excellent. Saved me a few hundred dollars versus having a GE Tech come and do it.

Followed the on line video. Clear, concise & easy. Thanks.

Under the control panel there are three small holes. Insert ballpen or small flat screw driver on both outer holes to push a tab lock that holds the control panel in place. Then pull out control panel and three set of wires will be exposed and disconnect wire connectors (connectors have different sizes so you wont get confused in reconnecting). Unscrew four screws on each corner that holds the ice dispenser assembly (a part where you push your glass against to dispense ice or water. The flapper is exposed and easy to replace.

got new filter

unclipped and replace with new part.

Turned the old filter loose, removed the adapter from it, put the adapter on the new filter and turned the new filter back into place.

I read instructions in all of the other repair stories everything went smooth no problems. Went and examined freezer door too see which type of door I had front or rear access. Popped off front LED panel, unpluged wires, removed 4 screws holding ice chute, removed 3 screws holding solenoid, slipped off solenoid pin, replaced all items in reverse order. This is one great site.

Took out the MFW filter.
Screwed in the MFW bypass.
Dispensed several gallons of water.
Saw good flow of water.
Removed MFW bypass.
Replaced MFW filter.
Our water flow was back to normal.

I searched the site, found the part - solenoid, watched the "how to" video and the repair was a snap. Saved myself tons of money versus having a repair person come over. I do have an older model and needed to prop the front cover panel off with a screwdriver (just under the covering) saw this on a posting from another individual, thanks for the heads up.

Turn off power
Remove operator faceplate by pullling out on outer lower corners
Disconnect wire connectors from circuit board
Remove four screws from dispenser and pull out dispenser assy
Replcae Door ASsembly
Put everything back in place
Power up
Job Done

Excellent video was available on the Parts Select website. It was simple. The selector panel pulled out by hand from the bottom. The subpanel was removed with the four screws. The flapper snapped out of the holder with two clips. The new one was inserted in reverse order.

It was actually very easy. You simply remove the display cover (you just want to be careful removing the display cover so as not to damage the lower part which secures it to the door), unplug the wires, remove the inner cover (4 screws) to gain access to the solenoid. Remove the 4 screws on the solenoid replace with the new one, put the inner cover back in with the 4 screws that were previously removed, plug the wires back in and then replace the display cover.

We followed the instructions we found on this site.

First we unplugged the refrigerator.

Then we removed the control panel that has the ice type selection on it by releasing the three spring latches. These are accessible from the bottom of the panel looking up toward the ice dispenser. There are three holes. Press a narrow screwdriver or punch in each of these holes and then pull out the control panel. (Be careful not to disconnect the wires, but observe how the wires are routed.)

Then we removed the ice tube cover that covers the solenoid assembly. There were four screws. One was very rusty and it required some WD40 to loosen it. Once the cover was removed the solenoid was visible on the right. (It has a floating component that attaches to the "arm" of the flap. This is how the solenoid opens and closes the flap. The flap needs to close properly so ice does not build up in the door.)

There were three screws that had to be removed to get the solenoid out. (The top one you may just need to loosen once the bottom two are removed.) When the solenoid was removed we also removed the old floating component from the flap are and replace it with the new one. We slid this into the solenoid hole and then screw it in with the three screws.

Before we attached everything, we plugged in the refrigerator to test the solenoid. We dispensed some ice and waited to hear the flap close. (The flap close is slightly delayed so be patient.)

We attached the cover that was over the solenoid being careful to route the wires as they were when we started. We test the solenoid again. Then we snapped the control panel back into place and tested again.

We found that having the right size screwdriver made a difference especially dealing with rusty screws. It was also handy to have a good flashlight. Having extra hands was helpful to hold the control panel and cover while working on the solenoid and routing the wires.

The model we have, the front panel snaps into place. It was removed for access and the electrical connectors unplugged. Four screws and the chute assembly was removed. Removing three screws and opening the chute door allowed the solenoid assembly to be removed without removing the door assembly. All parts and area were cleaned and the assemmbly was the process in reverse.
Guideline to prolong recurrance: always put ice into glass first to reduce splashing of ice falling into liquids causing the solenoid armature to rust and stick.