ZISB360DKB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

If you have a reverse osmosis system for filtered water system in your home that also feeds the refrigerator, using another water filter in the refrigerator is redundant, so GE makes a Water filter Bypass Cap that allows you to run using the already filtered water without needing to expensive water filter. FIRST - using a phillips screw driver remove the toe kick plate at the bottom front of the refrigerator - two screws - one on each side of the plate that extends the entire width of the refrigerator. SECOND - Locate the water line (should be right in front) and the valve to turn off the water. Turn valve clockwise (right) until completely closed. Then test by attempting to fill a glass with water using the dispenser on the door. If any water continues to come out, continue turning the valve (without forcing it) clockwise until it has been turned as much as possible. If water still comes from dispenser, locate the source of the water line - most likely from under the kitchen sink. There should be another valve under the sink, or simply turn off (turn the cold water valve clockwise) until water cold water completely turned off. Test again as required. THIRD - clear the top right hand back shelf directly under the water filter screwed into the ceiling of the refrigerator in the rear top right side of the refrigerator. Place a small towel under the water filter, and slowly turn the filter 1/4 turn clockwise without using force. Continue turning until the full 1/4 turn is complete and the filter will drop down without pulling. Place the old filter upside down in the sink, thereby allowing the filter to drain any water present in the filter. FOURTH - remove the filter plug from package, notice notches in top of plug that align with gaps in the area where a filter would typically be screwed into the filter location in the ceiling above the top right shelf in the refrigerator. After aligning notches in the bypass plug with gaps in the screw mechanism, carefully turn the bypass plug 1/4 turn counter- clockwise - at which time the bypass plug should be firmly installed. FIFTH - Reverse step SECOND, and turn valve Counter-Clockwise until valve is completely open. Test to ensure no water is leaking from the Bypass Plug. SIXTH - Finally reverse step FIRST by reattaching the toe kick plate using the two phillips screws removed in Step FIRST. NOTE: The Bypass Plug is quite inexpensive, but after adding shipping from Canada - the cost is about the same as purchasing a new filter for the refrigerator. :-(

Took old one out with my fingers. Put new one in with my fingers.

Remove control panel.
Remove four screw in control panel bracket.
Remove to bottom screws at bottom of solinid loose top screw.
Replace all screws.

Removed face plate, which holds the circuit board. Removed the next section be removing the 4 screws that hold it in place. Then removed the old solenoid, and replaced it with the new one.

First tried just replacing flap/spring and mounting. Still did not work so then order a new solenoid with piston that attaches to mounting. That solved problem completely. Corrosion around piston prevented fluid movement of flap. Easy fix after watching video. Saved a bundle I'm sure. Thanks !!!

Followed the online video. Unplugged refrigerator, removed trim piece, lifted control board cover, removed 4 screws retaining circuit control board and removed the 3 connectors from the control board. Located flapper and removed by using small flat tip to take tension off flapper connectors. Helper held flash light to illuminate flapper connectors. Reversed procedure. New flapper seals well and cured problems. Circuit board was a bit different than one in video, but still had the 3 connectors. Marked each connector with grease pencil at top edge to ensure correct reconnection. Should note how wires are threaded around circuit board to ensure they are tucked back in correctly in reassembly. Remove trim piece carefully. I broke 2 of the 8 plastic pins that hold trim on. May be due to age of unit as they were brittle. 6 pins still hold trim piece flush.

with a philips screw driver and that's all it was that easy

Remove ice maker and all of it's accessories in order to remove the panel covering the fan. Don't drop the screws!
Unscrew the lower fan bracket. You will see the lower red rubber grommet. Hold fan motor with one hand and push the fan off the shaft and into the compartment above. Then remove the round retainer thing below it by holding it and pulling down on the motor assembly. Install new grommet on upper part. and put it all together.
REMEMBER where the fan is on the shaft. It has about one inch of shaft placement. I put mine so that most of it was above the hole that the fan goes into and about 20 percent showing below the sheet metal.
Also check to see if your fan is damaged. Mine was not.
This refrigerator has been awesome! I have had many issues but have been able to fix all of them for the last 15 years!

We had problems with the ice dispenser chute building up frost from condensation freezing due to the flap not closing properly. It would clog up completely and often. I had already replaced the flap and spring years ago but it didn't help much. I Googled this problem for my model and found a video detailing how to check and change the solenoid. Sure enough, the solenoid was completely corroded and crumbled in my hands as I removed it. I ordered the replacement part and made the repair myself. The video was perfect in describing. If your refrigerator is well used as ours is, you'll be shocked by the buildup and cleaning that will be necessary as you make this repair. I ended up taking much more of the dispensing assembly apart so I could clean it with warm soapy bleach water. Be mindful as you disassemble or take photos / videos with your smartphone to help put it back together. It took longer to clean than replace the solenoid. Also, be careful if you have an island or other cabinetry close by. If you have to pull the refrigerator out to unplug it, the handles can chip granite edges or the top corners can scratch wood work. We have cherry cabinets that surround ours. I chipped the edge of the granite when I pulled it out and I scratched the wood as I pushed it back in place. Minor repairs but can save you some frustration. Good luck!

Used the instruction provide by Part Select, which are easy to follow.
When it came to replacing the Solenoid, the two bottom screws were easy to remove, The third screw (located on the top) needed lo be loosened, That screw was very difficult to remove because it was rusted, and I had to replace it.
I suggest that a spare screw should be supplied wit the solenoid.

I followed your video and completely dismantled the refrigerator evaporator motor, fan, brackets, and grommet, I completely cleaned the refrigerator including the cooling coils. I then ordered the evaporator motor ,fan, grommets, lid bumper, and brackets. The order would take a week to arrive. In the meantime I cleaned and reassembled all the old parts, waiting for the new ones to come. Guess what! The refrigerator was quiet as a mouse. I really did not need the new parts, but I kept them anyway just for good luck. Not bad for a refrigerator that's twenty four years old.

Opened, discovered not flapper but more complicated

I followed the instructions on a posted desctiption. It workded perfectly. Replacing the inner door panel was not as difficult as described. Just start the process with the screws in the middle of the door. Those two screw holes were not slots. All of the remaining screw holes had slots. I installed all of the door screws before tightening any. I workded right the first time.

I started out replacing a bad thermostat, no problem,
when I hooked up the water, I found that the water resovior had a leak.
I replaced the resovior, easy fix, but I had to buy two 5/16 brass couplers.
then I found that the box would not get below 10 degrees, and the suction pressure was very low.
I figured that the fan motor was burned out, so I opened up the access covers, the fan motor was hanging there with broken mounts, so I replaced the motor, and repaired the mount.
Everything works great now, The parts shiping was very fast, I was impressed.
I thought I was going to get away without fixing everyones
HVAC problems when I retired.
Friends and family still remember that you are the HVAC man.
Tom

I have not yet done the repair. After watching this repair video two problems came to mind. First I only ordered one grommet not knowing that there were two (or more I don't yet know). The second problem is that this video must be for a fridge from like the 1940, but it looks NOTHING like mine from 2008. The manual shows a bazillion parts and frankly I'm just a wee bit afraid to get started, and I am generally very handy, buuuttttttttt I don't know about this one