CTX21G1XBRWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplug refrigerator and turn water supply off to the ice maker. Remove the screws holding the bottom cardboard-like cover from the lower back of the refrigerator. Remove the water supply line to the old solenoid with 1/2 inch wrench. Unplug the two power supply wires to the old solenoid. Remove the screw that holds the solenoid to the back panel of the unit. After the solenoid is pulled out, remove the output hose with a 1/2 inch wrench. The configuration of the replacement solenoid is likely a little different than the original, but it seems to be rather universal and will fit back into place and perform properly. The new solenoid does not use a compression type nut to secure the output line. It's just a simple push-in connection. The wires may have to be rerouted a little, just keep them clear of the evaporator fan blades Reverse the removal procedure and you're done.

Did not do the repair because the unit arrived damaged. The packaging was in good condition. The plastic around the plug in shattered, and some of the plastic was inside the motor. Very good, and fast on adjusting the order.

Replaced defrost thermostat and defrost controller and also noticed that run capacitator for compressor almost oxidized in two and ordered and replaced and cleaned out drain tube and invertor (which was blocked by frozen peas and other food)or water to drain during defrost cycle and put everything back together and seems to work fine now....storing beer in outside refrig now

Replacing the new part wasn't hard, just very time consuming and frustrating. I had to remove two-thirds of the shelving of refrigerator as broken drawer slide was on the bottom and I had to have room to remove old and replace new. Of course, then I had to CLEAN all the drawers and shelving before replacing them and then, because they were fresh and clean, I had to remove the other third of shelving and wash and replace it. So, it was an hour-long or more time. I love your business, and had no idea I could get so many parts for old applicance and replace them myself, and I am a 70-year-old woman! This was the 2nd time to use your site and I will return to it again when needed. Thanks for prompt and reliable service and a site that makes it easy for a neophyte like me to find the broken part ! Keep up the good work.

Remove the rear cover, shut off the water, removed the hose, unplugged the electrical connector, removed the screw holding the valve on. Removed the plastic tube going into the freezer and reversed the steps

First of all, finding the part was very quick and easy, which really surprised me. The repair itself took only a few minutes. Just removed the two screws holding the broken end cap, and screwed the new one back in place.

Three easy steps, take off old part then all you do is tighten nut on one end of part and then just push other end of pipe down in slot. Did half to remove nut off the top end of tube very simple to do

I loosened the compression nut on the valve with my fingers and pulled the water line free from the valve. On the other end, I just pulled it from the hose clamp. Installation in reverse. Force the water line into the fitting on top, Slide the old nut over the line on the bottom. Screw the nut onto the valve. Reach inside the freezer and turn on the ice maker. Done. Before replacing the cardboard grill, you should vacuum the coils on the bottom, front and back. If practical, push it outside and blow it out with an air compressor or a leaf blower.

I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.

Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.

First I removed the electrical plug from the back of the freezer that plugs into the icemaker. I then removed the two hex head screws that hold the icemaker to the wall of the freezer and removed the icemaker. I removed the plastic cover, which incidentally protects the gears, by prying it off with a srewdriver. I removed three small nuts(7mm) which holds the internal cam in place. I removed the cam by pulling it off the shaft. Once I got the part from you folks I reversed the procedure that I just mentioned, and put the icemaker back together. It works great. The part with shipping was around $16.00. A new icemaker was roughly $159.00. If I would have called a technician it would have cost around $300.00 to repair.

i pulled the old gasket off, and placed the new one in place, starting at the corners. then i lined up the insert in the gasket with the gap where it is to go and ran my fingers along the gasket, pressing in with my thumb.

Tried replacing water valve since no water in ice cube tray. Exact part not available due to age of refrigerator, but I got the equivalent replacement part for $18. Mounting holes different, but I made it work. Also one connect on new one slip connect whereas both compression fittings on old valve. I put it back together and icemaker now works great.

My husband thought he would have to set aside time on the weekend to replace the gasket. It was delivered and I unpacked it put it on and that was that.

I had made a dry run at the repair after watching the instructional film provided by part select and it seemed easy enough.
The only problem was that i needed to use the electrical cord extender (provided) to adapt to my plug type. That presented a problm because it needed to be tucked up out of the way to allow the ice bin to clear. Just needed to be creative in how you wrapped the cord behind the ice maker unit before snugging the attachment screws.
Cranking out ice like crazy.