PSR26RSWASS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- david from LANSING, NC
- Parts Used:
- WR62X10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
broken Ice maker dispenser
with a philips screw driver and that's all it was that easy
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- Customer:
- William from W Berlin, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WR62X10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Ice forming around shoot. Flapper door not shutting letting warm air in.
I followed they instructions from the other "do it your selfers" but only replaced the solenoid. This was the cause. Rust was keeping solenoid plunger from moving and this held the flapper door open. Very easy to repair!
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- Customer:
- jeff from stillwater, OK
- Parts Used:
- WR62X10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
solenoid quit working
repair was easy, just removed control panel and removed screws from solenoid, switched out with new, was done in minutes
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- Customer:
- NICK from COCOA bEACH, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR62X10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Ice dispenser door will not shut completely
I removed the door cover plate and disconnected the circuit board, then four screws. The part was corroded in place. Upon removing three screws and cleaning the surface, the new part was an exact fit, replaced it and everything works like new.
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- Customer:
- Richard from Sandy Hook, CT
- Parts Used:
- WR62X10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Ice chute wouldn't open or shut correctly - rusted solenoid
Replaced rusted solenoid.
Popped front button panel off from the bottom using flat head screwdriver; Removed 4 screws holding electronics board and disconnected wires. Unscrewed 3 phillips head screws on old solenoid and replaced with new part. Reconnected wires to board, screwed back in, and pushed panel back into to place.
Thumbs up to PartSelect - fast, straightforward service and fast delivery.
Popped front button panel off from the bottom using flat head screwdriver; Removed 4 screws holding electronics board and disconnected wires. Unscrewed 3 phillips head screws on old solenoid and replaced with new part. Reconnected wires to board, screwed back in, and pushed panel back into to place.
Thumbs up to PartSelect - fast, straightforward service and fast delivery.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from TYLER, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR62X10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Your video was wrong. Your step was to remove exterior frame on ice/water outlet. No need to remove.Wasted too much time trying to remove.
Remove control panel.
Remove four screw in control panel bracket.
Remove to bottom screws at bottom of solinid loose top screw.
Replace all screws.
Remove four screw in control panel bracket.
Remove to bottom screws at bottom of solinid loose top screw.
Replace all screws.
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- Customer:
- James from TRIANGLE, VA
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11447
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Ice was not feeding ice to outlet
replaced the assembly bucket auger . Had i known at 5he time i believe replacing the auger would have solved my problem.the unit is working great and i thank the lady who spoke with me by phone was most helpful THANKS AGAIN
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- Customer:
- Barbara from MOUNT VERNON, IL
- Parts Used:
- WR71X10973
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The bottom was cracked
Just replaced it with new part
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- Customer:
- James from JOSHUA, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11447
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Ice bucket and auger assembly was broken.
Replaced the whole assembly.
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- Customer:
- Leon from WASHINGTON, MO
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11447
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Wouldn’t deliver ice
Pulled old unit out and slipped new unit in. Worked like a charm.
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- Customer:
- David from NORTH PALM BEACH, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR24X10155
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
door gaskets developed mold which could not be removed
out with the old
in with the new
in with the new
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- Customer:
- Michael from PALMYRA, VA
- Parts Used:
- WR23X31507
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
The switch was loose ( no spring). The lights did not work.
Unplug the refrigerator. Gently pry old switch out with screw driver. Move wires to connector on new switch with needle nose pliers. Pop it back into the hole. Plug back in. Peek inside to see the lights working.
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- Customer:
- JOHNNY from FORT WORTH, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR02X10585
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
frost build up
flapper then bought the spring
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- Customer:
- William from Champaign, IL
- Parts Used:
- WR51X10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
howling sounds in the freezer; blower fan cycles on/off
------------- defrost heater replacement --------------------------
- unplug the refrigerator
- unload all shelves underneath ice maker
- move ice crem into the refrigerator section
- remove all shelves and the bottom tray.
- remove light bulb cover and the bulb
- unscrew two 1/8" screws on top corners of the back panel
- unclip the ground clip on top
- pull the back panel up; pull the left side toward yourself
- test 3 thermistors (see instructions below)
- test the thermostat (see instructions below)
- if either thermistors or the thermostat units are defective, they may be the reason for fan malfunction, not the fan itself.
- unscrew 2 philips screws on either side of the defrost heater
- pull it out and unplug the 2 wires on either end. Replace with a new part.
- putting together is the reverse of disassembly
- move ice cream back to the freezer
--- thermistor testing
- unplug the refrigerator
- locate thermistors to be tested. There's one on evaporating coils, one on bot. left of the freezer (behind deep tray, with white wires), 1 in fridge section (top left, in the corner, inside square white wire conduit; undo the top 1/8" screw ONLY and pull conduit up).
- without disconnecting from the circuit, place a thermistor in a cup of ice water. Wait for 5 minutes
- locate the main control board. Locate and unplug the J1 connector. The pinout, starting from the side with all wires connected:
* pin 5: ground
* pin 4: evaporator thermistor
* pin 3: freezer
* pins 2,1: fresh food thermistor
- use an ohmmeter to measure resistance. Push the needle of the ohmmeter into the socket, where the wire plugs in, without trying to remove the wire. It should be 16.3 kOhm +/- 5% (for 0 deg C)
to replace a thermistor
- cut out the old thermistor, leaving as much wire as possible
- strip the wires, twist them pairwise
- use a bell connector filled with RTV silicone, to ensure that no moisture can get to the connection
* others have also used butt splices and screw-on caps with electrical tape (for moisture isolation)
- using a proper crimping tool, squeeze the bell connector to secure the wire
------------- thermostat testing ---------------------------------
- it's a round quarter-sized cylinder w/ pink and orange wires
- check for bulging (= burnt)
- locate temperature ratings on the side of the thermostat. It should read e.g. 140-30F. This means it's switches to open circuit when >140F is reached and switches to closed circuit when <30F is reached.
- unplue the 6 pin connector that has thermostat.
- test the thermostat. Orange wire is in the 6-pin connector; pink wire can be disconnected from the defrost heater under the evaporation coil. It should read closed circuit (no R).
- place the thermostat into a cup of boiling water. It should open.
- if OK, reattach the thermostat
- unplug the refrigerator
- unload all shelves underneath ice maker
- move ice crem into the refrigerator section
- remove all shelves and the bottom tray.
- remove light bulb cover and the bulb
- unscrew two 1/8" screws on top corners of the back panel
- unclip the ground clip on top
- pull the back panel up; pull the left side toward yourself
- test 3 thermistors (see instructions below)
- test the thermostat (see instructions below)
- if either thermistors or the thermostat units are defective, they may be the reason for fan malfunction, not the fan itself.
- unscrew 2 philips screws on either side of the defrost heater
- pull it out and unplug the 2 wires on either end. Replace with a new part.
- putting together is the reverse of disassembly
- move ice cream back to the freezer
--- thermistor testing
- unplug the refrigerator
- locate thermistors to be tested. There's one on evaporating coils, one on bot. left of the freezer (behind deep tray, with white wires), 1 in fridge section (top left, in the corner, inside square white wire conduit; undo the top 1/8" screw ONLY and pull conduit up).
- without disconnecting from the circuit, place a thermistor in a cup of ice water. Wait for 5 minutes
- locate the main control board. Locate and unplug the J1 connector. The pinout, starting from the side with all wires connected:
* pin 5: ground
* pin 4: evaporator thermistor
* pin 3: freezer
* pins 2,1: fresh food thermistor
- use an ohmmeter to measure resistance. Push the needle of the ohmmeter into the socket, where the wire plugs in, without trying to remove the wire. It should be 16.3 kOhm +/- 5% (for 0 deg C)
to replace a thermistor
- cut out the old thermistor, leaving as much wire as possible
- strip the wires, twist them pairwise
- use a bell connector filled with RTV silicone, to ensure that no moisture can get to the connection
* others have also used butt splices and screw-on caps with electrical tape (for moisture isolation)
- using a proper crimping tool, squeeze the bell connector to secure the wire
------------- thermostat testing ---------------------------------
- it's a round quarter-sized cylinder w/ pink and orange wires
- check for bulging (= burnt)
- locate temperature ratings on the side of the thermostat. It should read e.g. 140-30F. This means it's switches to open circuit when >140F is reached and switches to closed circuit when <30F is reached.
- unplue the 6 pin connector that has thermostat.
- test the thermostat. Orange wire is in the 6-pin connector; pink wire can be disconnected from the defrost heater under the evaporation coil. It should read closed circuit (no R).
- place the thermostat into a cup of boiling water. It should open.
- if OK, reattach the thermostat
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- Customer:
- Melody from Desert Hot Springs, CA
- Parts Used:
- IM6D
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced Two Icemakers
We replaced two old icemakers with two new for less than a local repair company wanted to charge us for ONE. Very easy to install, hardest part was cleaning under both refrigerators!
Thanks!
Thanks!
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