PSR26RSWASS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Ordered the complete kit minus the water tap. Should have ordered that also. Install was difficult simply because I was not sure of the style of the fridge. No ident had been left on the unit, so I used the p;ictures in the install kit to decide the proper install. Was very quick and the parts were great. After I went under the house(crawl space) I found an old water tap which broke off in my hand and started spewing water. Replaced everything and it runs great. Nice kit with a lot of instructions. Fantastic ordering fromyour company. Next day delivery was unexpected.

Unplug refrigerator,remove the freezer bulb, trays and rear cover to expose coils and heating element/defroster, The telltale sign its bad was it looked like an old flashbulb/burned, the old one was open, melt enough ice to remove and replace the defrost element(2 screws 2 wires) and reinstall components, reconnect power, thats it.

-Unplugged the refrigerator
-Removed panel on the back of the refrigerator, bottom right.
-Took pictures of existing main board so I would know where everything plugs in.
-Unplugged and removed main control board
-Installed new main control board
-Plugged everything in.

The defrost heater failed. The coils frosted completely over so no airflow to the fridge. Step 1. Empty the freezer. Ice maker and top shelf can stay. Remove power, pull plug or open breaker. Step 2. Remove shelves and bottom food drawer. Step 3. Remove bottom food drawer rails. 2 phillips screws on each side. Step 4. Remove back panel, 2 screws at the top. Work panel out. Note there may be a green ground wire hook on it at the top. This will expose the heater and the cooling coils. The heater is at the bottom of the cooling coils and is the width of the coils. Step 5. There will be 2 wires, one on each end, and two phillips screws holding it in. Wires pull straight out. Note which way the heater is installed and remove the 2 screws. Step 6. Assemble in reverse order. Be very careful with the heater. It is in a glass tube and is very easy to break.

Two tabs hold the switch in place. I used a plastic wedge to remove the switch. Removed and replaced the two connectors held in by friction. Painless.

Just pop the old one out, careful not to lose the wiring inside the ref wall & popped the new one in.

So easy.Remove. ice bucket, poured ice into replacement .Reinstalld. No tools. 3 minutes to do

No instructions came with the replacement control board. A notice that this part supercedes the original circuit board part number would have been helpful, although it is noted on the web site IF you drill into the parts list deep enough. Diagrams on the web site gave a general location for the circuit board.

Swap-out of the boards was relatively easy, although some of the connectors were reluctant to separate.

The new control board solved the overflowing ice maker issue.

removed the old assembly - slipped in the new one - worked great!

Bought two gaskets for both doors was just going to replace both due to age. Food door gasket was received damaged shipped poorly and I am still waiting on a refund. But went ahead with the repair , since freezer door was the one I was concerned about. Opened Freezer door gasket package and it was dirty and looked old from sitting in warehouse. I had to but it in the tub to make it pliable and I cleaned it also since it was in water already. Installed it pretty simple . Turned out the refrigerator wasn't leveled properly. Didn't realize the refrigerator is suppose to slope to the back . Called up GE and they helped me out. Customer Service from partselect.com and GE were very nice.

Replacement of the Main Control board was relatively easy, although some of the connectors were reluctant to separate.

The new control board appears to have solved the problem.

By following the instructions in the manual that went with it, I used the parts in the order that the instructions said. The illustrations were very easy and now we dont have to use ice cube trays any longer. Any person without experience that can follow directions can put in an icemaker with the simple to follow instructions that was used in the manual.

My wife and I decided to tackle this job on a Saturday. The fridge was due for a good cleaning anyway. We pulled it out and shut off the water to the ice maker.
I took out the old ice maker, (two screws and the plug) Then went to the back of the fridge. removed the cardboard cover at the bottom of the frigdge and took the mounting screw out of the water valve. I had a double valve for the no longer working in-door water so I made sure to identify Then installed the new water valve. Note: be sure to check your connections for leaks before mounting the water valve - it is easier to see and fix them !!!! You can leave the water on at this point because the icemaker and water valve will not operate until the icemaker is plugged in. Next choose the right water fill cup, and install the ice maker to the existing screw mounts and plug in the connector. Note: be sure the ice maker is turned off. Start the fridge, let it get cold, then turn on the icemaker.
Overall this is a great multi install package - Don't worry about extra parts because you will have some. If we would have just needed to do the icemaker and not clean the fridge, I could have done it in about an hour.
Overall I would highly recommend this package vs what is available at other retailers for more money. Best Buy has a bargain replacement icemaker but does not have the versatility and completeness of this product. I give this product 5 stars.... dm

Unplugged the old ice maker. Removed the two screws that held it in. Removed the old ice maker and replaced it with the new one. Put back the two screws, plugged it back in and turned on the power switch. It started making and dropping ice in the first 1/2 hour.

I popped the switch out using the blade of a small screwdriver and noticed that it connected with two wires via a slide on connector for each one. I noted the info on the old switch to identify which wire went to which terminal. I held each wire with a pair of pliers while I pulled the wire connector off the terminal on the old switch. I connected the two wires to the correct terminals on the new swith, and popped the switch back into the door frame. Easy, easy, easy and saved the $40 service call + parts cost!