MTS16BBMFLWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Open freezer, remove rack....this got a little complicated because I had to remove the door, that required the offset screwdriver because I had a clearance issues preventing the door from opening all the way. Remove the panel covering the fan, unplug the fan, remove it from bracket, install new fan, plug in, replace panel, replace rack, replace door...bam all done!

I haven’t received the wheel yet. Originally ordered on Dec. 13. Hadn’t received it by Dec. 20. Finally shipped on Dec. 22. Tracking said it was expected to be delivered on Jan.2. Not delivered. Then it said it was still on its way but it was unknown when it would be delivered. Still waiting on Jan. 6. By far the most expensive economy shipping ever, as this refrigerator is in a rental that can’t be rented until a wheel is installed.

The hardest part of the repair was emptying the freezer, next was getting the fan off of the motor shaft, The only reason the job was difficult is because i am 67 years old and not as flexible as i used to be.I had a tough time getting the fan off of the motor shaft, but i got it off with the use of a vise, and had to use the hammer and a socket to install a new fan blade.

Pulled the door off easily and noticed that the spacer on the Center hinge was ground down to nothing and that a small screw in the bottom plate of the door was half way out. This screw would catch on the cabinet Center hinge bracket and stopped the door from closing. Problem was solved by tightening the screw and putting in a new "spacer" that kept the small screws from contacting the Center hinge bracket. The freezer door now closes like new.

First I removed the two screws, the fan and unpluged the electrical connection. Then, plugged in the new part and then screw it back together.

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

My wife had the cover changed before I got home from work. Perfect fit for a replacement part!

The parts came the next day after ordering and I didn't pay for fast shipping. I removed the drawers and the old lid-shelf and replaced it with the new one; also added an extra shelf. I love the new items and they fit perfectly.

Remove power from the unit. With short length #2 Phillips loosen and remove the two(2) screws on the control panel located center top of the refrigeration area. Slide the control panel back about 1/2 inch and allow it to dangle from its wiring harness. Pinch the locking tab on the harness connector with one hand and use the other hand to separate the two sides. A little force is required. Remove the control panel from the refrigerator and shut the refrigerator door. Examine and note the routing of the temperature probe (Silver colored flexible wire) take a picture for later reference. Remove the old and replace with new unit. route temperature probe like the replaced unit. Reverse the steps and reinstall the control panel. It is a good idea to also purchase and replace the defrost timer.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

after watching how easy it was to get to the evaporator fan motor on u-tube, I took out the motor to inspect it......the motor had about 1/8 inch shaft end play and a slight amount of play on the shaft, the rubber grommets looked OK.....I then put it back together......since the motor was the only moving part in this location I figured it had to be the part making the noise, so I ordered a motor and 2 grommets …...the replacement motor also had 1/8 inch end play on the shaft, but no play on the shaft....I installed the new parts and it has been a week now and no noise.....SUCCESS!...….the shaft on the motor protrudes from the motor, and the fan is mounted about 1 1/4 inch away from the bearing in the motor and the fan is unsupported, so I ASSUME that the slight amount of play on the shaft caused some harmonics which caused it to make noise some of the time, but not all of the time......

removed cover over fan, four screws. removed two screws ,that holds fan in place,removed two more screws that holds fan in bracket,then reinstalled

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.

Took out old put new in. Watched a u tube, no problems