GFRF2KBYHWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First I was told the compressor was bad. A quick YouTube lookup diagnosed it as 1 of 3 thing. Starter relay, motherboard, or compressor. First two are cheap, compressors are not. A rattle in the relay will tell you if it’s bad. Since there wasn’t I looked to the motherboard. A burnspot indicated it was the board that was bad. Partsselect had the cheapest board at the same quality. Fast delivery and I simply plugged in the ports to install. There was a small cover with some bolts to take off but nothing intricate. Plug and play and I was up and running. Great experience with the website and no previous experience with repairs of this type.

I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix
the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would
have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was
pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to
take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in.
The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still
good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from
a website even if it seems like a sure thing

I was so pleased I got the correct part on the first try!
I know manufacturers use plastic because it's cheap and lightweight, but these parts break SO EASILY and it's ridiculous. At any rate, I used a Phillips head screwdriver to take off the old part- top and bottom. Then I needed another set of hands (or use the painter's tape) to hold it in place while I screwed in the new part, top and bottom. (2 screws each). Other than needing someone to help hold it in place while I did the first 2 screws, it was simple and one person can do it --You use the masking tape to hold it for the first two top screws if you have no help. Thank you

I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.

Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long

I visually inspected the compressor and narrowed down the source of the noise to the freezer area. Then I removed the doors and the screws securing the divider panel. Next I removed the bottom panel of the freezer, the styrofoam insullation panel and the evaporator motor. The motor is mounted between two grommets. I replaced the grommet facing the fan blades. The aluminum reflector below the styrofoam insulation panel had also come loose. I reattached it and reassembled the refrigerator in reverse order. The noise is gone!

I read stories from the website how others did it so I figured I would give it a try. I put all the frozen stuff in the refrigerator piled up. Took out the shelves. Took out 2 screws with a socket extension ( nut driver will work fine.) Remove the light bulb. lifted up on the back panel...it came right out. Saw the coils and on top the sensor. Took it off, cut the wires, spliced in the color coded new one ( pink to pink, orange to orange) Stuck it in the top coil in the original position and crossed my fingers! I put all the pieces back easily, restocked the freezer and waited. HOORAY!! My ice cubes are all separate and free. NO frost inside. A very easy fix for $20.

Note: If there is a large amount of ice build up on your coils a hair dryer works great. The drain is on the bottom anyway. Also , you may want to seal around the wire nuts to keep moisture out. I did

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

remove back panel inside fridge freezer side, everything frosted, unplug and used a hair dryer

1. Took out defrost heater and the bottom and tested (per this site) tested OK.

2. Then looked at the defrost thermostat, it was swollen with the top coming off. so i new it was bad
3.clipped and stripped the 2 wires, spliced in the new one with wire nuts and sealed them with silicone. All better

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

Removed the divided glass shelf, to which the slide rail is attached. Removed the broken rail, saved the two screws.
Now comes the clincher:
It would help if the replacement part website would tell you what size and what kind screwdriver you will need, so you could start chasing it while you wait for the part.
Even better if they could include it, since the plastic part and it‘s shipment is not exactly cheap.
So to screw in two screws you need a #15 Star screwdriver!
How many housewife’s have this one in the tool drawer?

took the back off and defrosted with a hairdryer. disconected the part pulled the part out cut the wires. put the other part on and instaled it. put it back together and it seems to be working just fine. thank you

I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.