GDRS0KBXFRSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

removed the inside fridge electrical panel and swapped switches

easy pry out, disconnect wiring, connect on new switch and press in switch.

Watched a youtube on capacitors- though on a motor with a pulley, the symptoms were the same, motor running and pulley not turning-bad capacitor. Took a chance for a 17+ dollar part vs a new compressor. It worked.

Googled the model number of refrigerator with symptoms of "refrigerator wont run". Parts select web site appeared on my screen, opened Parts Select website, Partselect said probable cause of my frige symptom was that the run capacitor usually burns out 51% of the time. They were correct with the diagnosis 100%. I ordered the run capacitor for $23.00, installed it in 10 minutes, refrigerator runs good as new. Thank you for saving me cost of service call. I probably saved $200 or more. I will use Partselect again with my next problem. THANK YOU,

Pulled out old socket.pushed in new one.

I started removing the switch by prying on the right side with a screwdriver, when it emerged enough I used pliers to finish removing it. I then unpluged rhe wires from the bad switch and pluged them on the new switch and "poped" it into the hole.

Connected the 2 wires and pushed in the switch until it clicked.

Easy. Followed the video instrucations. the part was right there next to the compressor.

First I flipped breaker to off position for refigerator, Pulled down on socket and broke it free. Then took needle nose piars to pull wire and plug out from hole, so I could conect to new light socket then snaped it in place . Hardest part was getting wire and plug out of hole.

Gently pry out switch in door jam with screwdriver and pull both connectors off and put connectors on new switch then push switch back into the hole. Looked it up on the internet and video showed how to and also had link to new part, ordered and less than a week later the fridge is bright again. I have an older freezer also and it seems that they all use the same switches. Very Very easy

I identified the noise was coming from the coils / and the fan. Cleaning the fan helped reduce the noise a bit but it still kept recurring. I ordered the part, which was really easy using the diagram on the website. The instructions and the video were really helpful and was able to remove the old motor and replace it with the new one with relative ease. While there I cleaned the fan blade and vacuumed the surrounding area. This whole repair went quite smoothly and has given me the confidence to take on other repairs before calling out the repairman.

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.

Looking at the schematic I found in the back of the unit, it appeared that there were not many parts associated with the problem. I removed the Overload/PTC and run Capacitor as a single unit. Although the capacitor was listed as the most likely problem part I decided to order both items since small particles of non-ferous material were falling out of the Overload/PTS plastic case. I installed both parts as a unit and plugged the refrigerator in. The compressor did not come on so I figured that there were other problems. After about 15 minutes I returned to the unit and found it running. It is now quieter than it has ever been. I now feel that the defective part was the Overload/PTC unit and not the capacitor.

Removed rer cover, unplugged starter assembly from side of compressor and replaced unit with a new one. Plugged fridge in and it works good.