TBC19ZRERWH General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
Jump to:
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
broken slide rails
Basically I removed 4 screws holding the rails together, did a little cleaning of the existing parts that I would re-use and screwed the 4 screws back in and put it back into the fridge. Piece of cake. If I hadn't cleaned up the old parts it would have taken me 5 minutes.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Kenneth from Rowe, VA
- Parts Used:
- WR2X9391
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
bulb out
I ordered the part, within two days we had received it. My husband put the part in and I really don't know what he used doing so. All I know is that the light works now and we don't have to use the flashlight. Thanks a lot.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Sumlorq from Cleveland, OH
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
light switch freezer door
put the gratefruit knife behind the old switch pooped it out pluged the new one in piece of cake 5min.even vacumed the dust off the coil
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- janette from huntingtown, MD
- Parts Used:
- WR17X2769
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
needed to replace broken drawer slide rail,
removed produce drawers, removed center piece front cover, removed glass shelf, removed broken drawer slide rail - unscrewing where attached in the rear of the refrigerator. Also removed screw from centerpiece where broken drawer slide rail was attached. reassembled all very quickly....saved myself having to buy another refrigerator by doing this simple repair.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- James from Glendale Heights, IL
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Light would stay on when door closed
Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Gary from EAST JORDAN, MI
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Light went out in refrigerator
Pop out switch, pull wires, attach wires to new switch and pop back in. Easy smeasy!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The light inside the oven had burned out
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Linda from WILLIAMSPORT, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR60X30349
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Evap fan failed, would need restarted by hand when weather warmed up
Repair was super simple. Everything was a direct fit. Hardest part was unloading freezer to access evap motor. My freezer was old making my wire shields very brittle so I cut the shielding and used heat shrink tubing for a neat clean repair.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Deborah from BRADLEYVILLE, MO
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Broken light switch
This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Nan from PURCELLVILLE, VA
- Parts Used:
- WR2X9391
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
My light in the refrigerator was going on and off.
I unplugged the refrigerator. Pressed the tab near the light bulb. Unplugged the socket and reconnected it.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Phyllis C. from Northwood, NH
- Parts Used:
- WR17X2769
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Slide rail broken at forward mount
Took out shelf & brackets. Removed plastic shelf. Unscrewed broken bracket & screwed in new bracket.
Put back in & replaced the shelf.
Put back in & replaced the shelf.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Left drawer slide broken replaced both right and left
Removed drawers and glass shelf. Removed screws that hold old slide rails in place. Installed new rails and re-installed cover for vents. Placed assembly back in and installed drawers.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- marj from NEWBURY PARK, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR2X9391
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Fridge light dead even with new bulb
1- youtubed the potential diagnoses, 2- resourced and ordered parts, 3- removed old socket, installed new one :-)... My fridge is an older fridge and could've used a screwdriver for eyeglasses. Plug and play easy... YAY!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Wendell Hayes from Dillob, SC
- Parts Used:
- WR60X187
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Fridge wasn't cooling and half freezing
Part was perfect fit .Removed fan .three screws.replaced that s it
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Edward from E LONGMEADOW, MA
- Parts Used:
- WD2X5166
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
water leaking from under dishwasher
Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.
Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.
A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.
Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.
A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!