38471PBRDRWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Took out the drawers slipped the new track into place and replaced the drawers.

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

Had to e-mail GE for electrical schematic. Checked voltages to compressor. Jumpered compressor to see if it would even come on. Found bad run capacitor. Fixed.

replace the bar lift top off

repalaced the old one with the new one. easy

My fridge came with only a single snack pan, and since the glass shelves are identical I decided to order the parts needed for installing the second snack pan. The glass shelf is secured in front by a round plastic pin protruding from the side of the fridge. Once the shelf is lifted upward and free of this pin, the rear retaining ears on the metal shelf side brackets can be released from the vertical-slotted metal track at the rear of the fridge. Make certain that you have the Right and Left snack pan slides oriented correctly, and positioned on the correct side of the metal shelf brackets. You’ll need to thread two self-tapping screws into each of the snack pan slides: one near the front, and the other at the rear. These screws extend through the metal side brackets into pre-aligned holes in each pan slide. When this is completed, you can test-fit the new clear plastic pan slide (drawer) into the slides to make sure it fits correctly. All that's left to do is insert the retaining ears into the appropriate pair of slots at the rear, then lower the front of the glass shelf until it's properly positioned over the plastic support pin. Now you're ready to enjoy twice the snack pan capacity as before!

Checked the defroster coil which is located behind the rear panel in the freezer compartment, it was still working. Followed the schematics down to the defrost timer, which is located in the lower front of the refrigerator and tried that. Plugged in the new part and the problem is solved.

I started at the compressor and replaced the overload and the Ptcr first and that did not make the compressor start running again, so I replaced the capasitor and it still did not start, so I bit the bulett and replaced the Main Control Board and that is what I should have checked first, when I removed the old one I found a little burnt spot on the back that I could not see from the front. The new one did not look exactly like the old one, it had two more wire terminals than the old one, but just leave them blank and everything will work just fine!

Defrosted the refrigerator,power off and cut the 2 wires on thermostat and sodered the new one on and shrink tube sealed the wires,refrigerator works like new!

per your instructions

took the old stop off put the new stop on

I started removing the switch by prying on the right side with a screwdriver, when it emerged enough I used pliers to finish removing it. I then unpluged rhe wires from the bad switch and pluged them on the new switch and "poped" it into the hole.

1) This is a built-in refrigerator with the compressor, coils, etc. at the top. Turn off the breaker to the fridge. 2) Remove the front panel off the top (just push up and pull out). 3) Removed 2 screws to the old timer and carefully remove the plug. Plug the new timer in and screw in. 4) Since our fridge was heavily frosted up, we moved everything to another refrigerator and coolers and kept the refrigerator off until all panels were room temperature. 5) If you haven't cleaned the coil in a while, vacuum it with a soft brush attachment. 6) Turned back on and the refrigerator is cooler than ever!

removed the inside fridge electrical panel and swapped switches

layed fridge face first on a chair removed cover with flat head screwdriver unplugged part replaced with new part replaced cover returned to upright and plugged in