ZISW480DRK General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.

Show installation!

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

Shut water behind the refrigerator, unplugged the unit. Unscrewed the back tin panel and simply unscrewed the brace scew for the Double Outlet Water Valve. Disconnected the hoss - inspected the hosed for wear. Next detached the hoses and power source to the unit... reconnected both hoses & power source, plug the refrigator back in and inspected for any water leaks. Simple!

Remove the ice maker, motor and replace.

The biggest problem was that the part was NOT available from GE. Part Select had the part, it was easily identified on their website and it couldn't have been easier to order it.

The repair from GE would have cost me hundreds of dollars. Thanks Parts Select.

remove the front plate. use screwdriver to pry the cover off from the bottom of the cover, remove the wiring from the front cover.remove the 4 screws and pull out the shute. remove three screws from the solonide and replace . very easy fix. save yourself $100.00 labor.

follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new

I turned water off at valve and unplugged refrigerator. I removed screws to remove cardboard cover at bottom. I removed screw holding duel inlet water valve bracket and pulled out valve. Then it's just a matter of exchanging electrical connections and water lines. The electrical connections unplug and plug in-red to red and blue to blue. The water lines are two different sizes so they can't be mixed up. Then reattach bracket and cardboard cover. Turn water back on and plug back in.

Turns out it was only the frozen water that thawed when I unplugged the fridge for 24 hours.
New part returned, not used.
Service was excellent.

I took the ice maker tray out and dumped the ice and then removed 4 screws to take the plastic front off the drawer. I then took 4 more screws out to remove auger assembly. I could now unscrew the broken nut and replace it with the new one and put the snap ring and washer back in place and then put everything back together. Done
Had I had my lathe running at the time I would have made this part out of aluminum instead of the new one and original that is out of plastic which is why it did not last.

I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.

Emptied the ice from tray.
Removed the four screws that hold the face plate.
Removed the four screws that fasten drive housing to the tray.
Slid the drive cup into place at the end of the auger.
Made sure the rubber gasket was in place .
Replaced the four screw that hold the housing to the tray.
Replaced the four screws that hold the face plate.
Put some ice cubes in the tray and tested to be sure everything worked properly.

This should have been easy, but I couldn't get the housing shield off. I removed the 4 screws but it wouldn't come off. It seemed to be stuck in the lower right. (It seems that many people have the same problem.) I decided to destroy the old one and install a new dispenser housing shield, and replace the flapper while I was at it. I finally got the shield off (by taking a pipe wrench to it and breaking it into little pieces) and discovered what the problem was: the light in the lower right had melted the plastic of the dispenser shield, which fused to the plastic of the housing! Bad design, GE! After that, it was no problem. However, I couldn't remember how to replace the microswitch. I should have taken a picture, first. Duh. Lucky for me, Parts Select had a very informative video showing how to replace the microswitch. ! was saved! Thanks, Part Select!

After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wiggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.

Found your web site and bought a couple of replacement parts from you guys and reaaembled unit. Its now working. Only issue I had was in the reassembly of the auger unit, wasn't quite sure of the blades etc. and the proper order Saw the sketch on your site and figured it out from that. Will visit you guys again when I need a part. Good delivery and timely. Thanks and regards Gil